Why not?
Considering the open geometry, this may work, too:
http://notableknotindex.webs.com/Versatackle.html
Especially as shown in the second diagram.
However, you have many other options that will look cleaner when done.
No. More like this http://www.parktool.com/uploads/images/blog/repair_help/shm_da_542.jpg just to demonstrate the concept, with some modification necessary for your purposes.
The pinch bolt applies pressure to the crankshaft. The crankshaft would be the analog of your wire running through the end of your cruciform arm structure.
unwieldy, unreliable, finicky(requiring too much attention), tendency to go out of tune…
If that were the case, you could just use the stopper knot in concert with a tensioning mechanism, as has been discussed.
It may not be the case. I don’t know.
I’d probably borrow from the concept of a guitar string tension on a guitar. Of course, you’d have to reconfigure your system somehow, adding a few components here and there.
Another possibility is Round Turns and Half Hitches, which is my default tension system before I consider a Trucker. Can you widen the hole and go around the anchor to make Round Turns? Try one RT and then two RTs if one doesn’t hold the tension long enough to tie the Half Hitches.
Ah ok. I don’t think that will work because there is no way that I can apply more force with plastic than I am at the moment with the metal. I’m turning the scews so much the metal is tearing and it still slips.
That’s really cool. Unfortunatly it probably won’t work because the lines are not always completly taut. When it bends in weird ways some of the lines go slack. I assume that would not work well with this.
Hi Blooop and welcome.
If there is room for the wire rope to pass back through the hole, then you might be able to thread it through a suitable washer or dowel after it comes through (keeping the loop from pulling through like a toggle), then on the return side of the cross tie a knot after tensioning.
Or use a crimp ferrule.
Hope this generates more ideas.
SS
Possibly. A Slippery 8 Loop would handle that fine and provide tension:
http://notableknotindex.webs.com/slippery8.html
I’d try using that center axis somehow. Round turns again…
Cool thanks. I tried crimping a ferrule to the wire before but they were not strong enough. I just need to find the right one.
Like this? : http://i.imgur.com/BikGqOo.png
Would a round turn and two half hitches work well in terms of having tension while tying?
Yes! Except that loop is one or more Round Turns, and you secure with Half Hitches. One modification, if you can’t get underneath the wire to tie Half Hitches, then raise the base on that axis by using a thick washer/spacer or something.
By the way, you should experiment with making tension in rope by using RTs. It’s a fundamental concept. Knowing about RTs in rope is analogous to knowing how to purify water or make fire in camping. Learn it in and out.
“Round Turn and Two Half Hitches” is the search you want.
Some form of appropriately sized threaded collet would be the most elegant and effective solution. I can envision a hex-head collet having two nuts to grip the wire. One of the nuts would do double duty as a fine tension adjustment without having to re-adjust the gripping point on the wire. Sorry, I couldn’t find any Google images of exactly what I’m describing.
But thinking about it, Roo’s idea of having a threaded bore in the cruciform which accepts a hollow bore threaded hex-head sleeve/bolt (plastic should work here) seems a simple, effective, and more easily executed solution, but requires one added modification . That knot must be glued/epoxied to create a reliable and effective stop against (but not glued to) the hex-head tension adjuster. So, after all, knots are a perfectly reasonable solution. Now everyone is happy 
Good job Roo. What nice, elegant knot would you use?
P.S. Use clear epoxy so that knot can be seen
You might try a small eyebolt or a hook bolt (a piece of allthread with a hook bent in the end might suffice.) passing through, but not threaded into the plastic (the outside diameter of the threads should be slightly smaller than the hole through the plastic). You could then attach the line to the hook or eyebolt with a loop knot and adjust the tension on the line with a nut on the other end of the bolt. A lock nut could be used in addition. It might not be pretty, but it should do the job.
There are various ideas of securing this, the simplest being
an extension to what I said --which entailed tucking that
first completed pass beneath the start of the wrapping
(so, the tensioned line clamps down upon itself against
the flat --and this is an issue(!)-- surface). One might
continue with a 2nd wrap, trying with it to pass over
the tensioned line (which needs to be secured for when
it loses tension) and then under itself (half-hitch)
to make a 2nd lock; and some 3rd pass & lock is likely
needed for better security, given the material & surface.
One can conceive of working in a Gleipnir nipping here,
in order to become immune to the surface-geometry issue
(because the G. will do nipping of material against material
and be independent of the shape & contact w/surface).
I've just realized that the fact that the underside is sloped may [u]effect[/u] things.
And so affect them. It can effect some assured positioning
via its slope, making a wrap press against the tensioned line,
e.g.. It should also ameliorate the sharpness of the turns
around this side of the object, much as I suggest doing with
an added cylinder, below. …>>
Now, again, considering the relatively sharp (right-angle)
edges of the hitched-to object, I might favor using some
small cylinder to effect the locking while also easing
the abuse on turning around the object. Here’s what I’m
thinking of:
with a small cylinder, able to fit between the hole & side,
wrap the line over this (“O1”) and around,
and then come back over (“O2”) and tuck under the cylinder (“O3”),
and around (“O4”) and back under again (“O5”), to secure the lock.
And re exact orientation of these wrap-&-tucks of the
cylinder:
start on the center-side of the turned-over… line,
but tuck at angle to pass on the away side of the
hole;
then wrap around and cross over both the starting-out
and returning-to-lock lines (top of cylinder),
and go between the first tuck and the hole, to finish.
= = ====O1O2O4 ===…||B
= = = == = = = = ===…||A
= =O3 O5 Hole= == ==…||R
Pressure/tension of the wraps should press the cylinder
against the cross piece w/hole, trapping the tucked ends
to lock. Working the tie-off into proper tension will need
to come after getting the wraps & tucks into place.
—dl*
I haven’t played with the line that blooop has, so I have no idea if glue is needed on an overhand knot. Earlier, I suggested a Slippery 8 Loop as a tensioner (which works for rope and monofilament), but I wonder how any complex knot will perform in a line that has a metal core. I have to accept blooop’s word that it is knottable, but to what extent?
So, all we can do is throw out ideas, and let blooop see what happens.