This is another clue that makes me think that the snag might have been more like the first video in this thread. A loop-only snag would make a much bigger and easier target.
Things happen so quickly during a fall, it’s hard to see in the moment.
This is another clue that makes me think that the snag might have been more like the first video in this thread. A loop-only snag would make a much bigger and easier target.
Things happen so quickly during a fall, it’s hard to see in the moment.
I looked up and saw the snag on the wall as it fell off. I do not believe my eye loop touched anything except for my harness.
The knot is not built to stay rock solid tight. The nipping loop and collar are not structures that are made to prevent the ongoing eye-leg from feeding back through the 1mm necessary to allow the returning eye-leg the ability to give an extra couple mm to the collar.
I was holding the tail in this video. Yes, I’m only pulling on the ongoing eye-leg. The returning leg is directly stuck on a snag. Yes, there should be extra friction from the harness loops sliding down the rope, but there should also be much more weight than me just quickly tugging. I can’t currently get video of this on the wall (without endangering my skull).
Somehow the tail stayed almost perfectly in place when this happened in real life. I assume that it was pinned by the snag, somehow. I slid a few feet down a vertical face. I assume the knot was pointed down (gravity, and all) and turned up when it hit what it snagged on. The knot, as pictured in this video, is not immediately post setting. I held the standing end and banged it on the ground two times then immediately took this video. I would guess this is equivalent to having climbed a little bit. Scott’s lock (non left hand / cowboy version, at least) knot does not stay perfectly set. This is rope that I have personally climbed on at, and was purchased by, my gym before it was cut into sections for discarding. I was given this piece to practice tying with. It is most certainly a rope built and rated for climbing. I trust that my gym and insurance company are not messing around. I’ll be happy to get the brand and model when they open back up.
I’m seeing this video as proof of your ability to easily untie the knot using whatever rope you are using in the video.
If you are out to prove this knot’s insecurity then you’ll have to show it in a more useful way.
And if you don’t care for it, just use another…
BTW, it is not just for tying in.
If you need to guard against snagging,
ack, that I think implies a more involved,
complex knotted structure. The mirrored bowline
has a SPart collar that leads of course to the eye
and tail-wise to a back’n’forth through the two
nipping loops; which two loops should impede
the sort of SPart-flow that you saw. (They did
stop that in slick HMPE for one Brion Toss test.)
One has other ways to make some compound
structure with greater protection; note that the
bowline can be cast into a line atop any
other knot, then have its tail reeved into that.
If the single leg of SPart was fully loaded,
and each leg of eye 1/2 loaded;
as Equal & Opposite loaded pair..
.
Is definitively different than going around locking mechanism with force path
let alone using 1 side of the E&O pair to pull lock apart.
in many forms
An RT mechanism would make less likely
because of 3 half arcs upgrade from 1 of force
.
Have seen in some texts the reason for innie not outie on BE of Bowline was not to snag to invert when unloading ships.