End Bound Reverse Girth Hitch Bowline

New Knot Investigations
1

https://imgur.com/a/7xF8w1q

Sorry, agent_smith, pseudo bowline. :stuck_out_tongue:

Is this knot new?

Another climbing harness tie-in but with a built in “oops” safety factor.

I can’t make this knot jam. Snap the collar back, pull through some standing line. Snap the switchback of the girth hitch back and pull through standing line. The knot releases. It holds tight until you purposefully pull S-Part through twice. It is ring load safe.

I need a stronger testing setup, but I am fairly certain that this knot can be tightened by hand enough that there is minimal slippage and very little risk of the rope sheath burning from slipping under load.

No matter how you mess up a reverse girth hitch bowline, if it has a collar around something and an End Bound move from the End Bound Double Bowline, in any order and around any place on the knot, it is stable and secure.

You can reverse the direction the switchback faces (though you lose the inherent backup collar). You can put the working end through the nipping loops from the “wrong” side. You can make a girth hitch (that wants to spread apart) instead of a reverse girth hitch (which holds itself together). You can bind the nipping loops without going around the ongoing or returning eye-leg. You can bind the nipping loops and then collar the returning eye-leg. You can EB under the collar.

You can even bind the nipping loops twice and forget to collar anything and still end up with a knot that won’t drop you, though it isn’t ideal. This actually produces some very interesting knots with no nipping loops, but a very securely bound returning leg.

Can you help me find an unsafe pair of moves through the nipping loops of a girth hitch that causes an unsafe harness tie-in? As far as I can tell, if your partner saw you make a girth hitch and there are 3 lines through the nipping loops, your partner knows you’re safe. Maybe you’ll need a knife to free yourself from the knot, but it won’t drop you.

I’m going to go full Cunningham’s law, here. This knot is the best climbing harness tie-in because you can’t mess it up with 3 ropes through the nipping loops. Please prove me wrong so I know what it is essential to NOT do. I’ve been purposely messing it up in every conceivable way for over a month and I keep ending up with a safe harness tie-in.

Anyway, the correctly tied knot is my current harness tie-in. Anyone see any reason that it shouldn’t be?

2

The worse offender, so far. End Bound End Bound Girth Hitch Bowline devolves into this. It has no nipping loop, but it sure holds all the weight that I can throw at it.

EBEBGH loose.jpg

EBEBGH tight.jpg

3

Good to see that you are experimenting and investigating extensions of known concepts.
And thank you for taking the time to present your creation.

No matter how you mess up a....
This argument is tendered by many climbers and is a weary and tiresome proposition. My counter argument is that you shouldn't "mess up" - climbing has many life critical elements, and failure to accurately complete any one element could lead to death. The favored (and most parroted argument) is a cold, tired, oxygen starved (insert your favorite stress factor) person needs to have a simple and idiot-proof task otherwise (death) blah blah blah...

There are so many critical links in the chain…where does it start and end?
Logic states that the tie-in occurs right at the beginning (not half-way through a climb) - so this should occur before the onset of the parroted stress factors.
Untying occurs only after the climb has been completed.
One could also argue that gloves could be forgotten - leading to frost bite.
Or snow goggles are forgotten - leading to blindness.
And so on…

This knot is the best climbing harness tie-in because you can't mess it up with 3 ropes through the nipping loops.
? "Best": Only from [i]your [/i]point-of-view. Its sort of like Republican versus democrats (or in Australia, labor versus liberal) - there is no 'best' - just different points of view.
Please prove me wrong so I know what it is essential to NOT do. I've been purposely messing it up in every conceivable way for over a month and I keep ending up with a safe harness tie-in.
? Again - the tired old parroted argument about stress factors leading to mistakes. Training solves this issue - skills must be learned and automatic (sort of like changing gears in a manual car). Even when I'm tired I can still change gears successfully. I've even managed to go to the toilet and successfully relieve myself no matter how tired, cold, hungry and fatigued I am.

EDIT NOTE: Another factor is the so-called ‘Partner check’.
That is, 2 climbers should check each other - right?
I mean, if 2 climbers aren’t checking each other - that might be seen as being reckless.
Now, some will tender counter-argument such as; what if a person is solo climbing?
Obviously, if a person solo climbs, there is no partner and there is no cross-checking.
That person would need to be 100% self-reliant and 100% confident in their own knowledge and skills.
Of course, if a person is a solo climber, it is more likely than not that that person does in fact possess the requisite skill set (otherwise, why would such a person solo climb unless they had a death wish?).

The cold hard reality is that you have searched for and found a system that works for you.
Everyone is different - and has preferred solutions to known problems.
I am a right hand dominant person - and I grasp and do things in a certain way - and rarely change my movements.

For me, I prefer Scotts locked Bowline (based on #1034 1/2).
It is stable and secure and never works loose.
It is what I refer to as ‘inherently secure’.
I’ve been lead climbing on multi-pitch trad routes for the past 10 years using Scotts locked Bowline - including something in the order of 25 falls.
I’m writing this post - therefore i must still be alive :slight_smile:

EDITS: Its late - I made some typos - but corrected them despite being fatigued, cold and tired!