Well my first post! glad i found this place, I just got into
knot’s for making lanyard’s for my flashlight’s, or more correctly tying paracord to the light.
I used an angler’s perfection on the split right (closed)
to the lanyard and a buntline hitch for the groove n the light. it’s seem’s strong but has loosed up a bit then i sinch it tight.
what i want is a loop knot that once tied tight won’t loosen at all, or alt least close
plus now that i forund knoting so interesting I plan to learn more about them, and i thnk this plait is the place orr that! thanks guy’s! VDG
Hello and welcome Voodoogreg!
Nice work and yes I often use a buntline hitch for a tight closing loop that won’t let go. In this instance, it will work best in a stretchy and high friction cord. I use a cord from the haberdashers, that they use for the drawstrings in parkas, stretchy but not shockcord. I am also a big fan of the constrictor knot and I imagine the Boa would work well around your flashlight body and look quite good too.
Look forward to seeing more of your work displayed.
John
Hi VDG,
I’m with John; The constrictor binds well and will try to stay put! Also the selection of cord will, as he says, make a lot of difference. If the cord is too hard it won’t deflect enough within the knot to stay put. You might try one lanyard with the core strands pulled out of the para cord. In addition to that the number of points within the knot where the line “nips” will affect the security. The Buntline isn’t very complex so not many points of direction change. Also not many locations to build friction. Think in the other direction and try a hangmans noose or some of the sport fishermens knots (often based on the blood knot or other multi wrap knots) to get more friction points, if not more “nips”. While you are going in that direction I’ll go through some back issues of Knotting Matters (the IGKT magazine) for I seem to remember a knot recommended as an alternative to an eye splice for some boating use… but I liked it because it formed a choking noose or loop that has not worked loose in anything around here. I can tie it but want to refer you to the first publication so I’ll be sure to be correct.
Hello and welcome Voodoogreg!
Nice work and yes I often use a buntline hitch for a tight closing loop that won't let go. In this instance, it will work best in a stretchy and high friction cord. I use a cord from the haberdashers, that they use for the drawstrings in parkas, stretchy but not shockcord. I am also a big fan of the constrictor knot and I imagine the Boa would work well around your flashlight body and look quite good too.
Look forward to seeing more of your work displayed.
John
Thanks gentleman! I don’t know about nice work :-[ but it’s is best
i can do on a first try.
Thanks drjbrennan and drjbrennan for the tip’s. I will check out the constrictor. I used 2mm para for that job, I bought at a camping/climbing shop,(only color too ) it doesn’t have a core persay, but part of the weave was a stiffer black thread piece then the rest and i yanked it and it fit the groove well, but does stickout more then i wanted . (wish they made a 1mm paracold in OD green, or camo.
Well i love this site! and will keep practicing as many knot’s as i can practice makes (near) perfect they say
look forward to surfing this site and take in as much as I can! VDG
Hi again,
To avoid some confusion “Para Cord” is the military specification cord from the USA military, once used as the shroud lines on parachutes, that has a 550# rating. It is an over braid and a seven line core… all of nylon. It comes in many colors now (as in the old days of only one… od green.) It has only one diameter, about 2mm. You can visit some cool sites to see it ub “party colors”. It is all about 2mm, depending on how you read your micrometer. Which comes back to the removal of the core. Please do not add to the confusion… Para cord with the core stipped out has no common name in the IGKT.. but many members use it that way. I’ve got about 600’ of “fake” para cord.. no core at all and an overbraid that is not the milspec nylon. I use it up as fast as I can… but golly! So to help us all, “Para cord” is the USA military specification 'chute cord from WWII and before, 550# rated and having a outerbraid and a seven cord core. All Nylon. Which really doesn’t help you with your post but may help posts in the future. Now, back to “how to put a lanyard on a flashlight.” I often put a complex Turks Head Knot on the item and leave a loop to attach to. This looks pretty cool and is very easy to do. I do not use the ends for the loop. Pick a THK. Tie it around your object (flashligtht). As you double the ply, at any point in the process of doubling, take an outside turn in the working end before continuing on. The outside turn is the necklace. Soon you will see a two or three ply THK with a loop hanging in space. That will be your necklace. Work slack back into the knot and make your necklace fit the task. Finish the THK. A 16" diameter the loop is a “choker” (sure is on me with my neck). 18" sits on the colar bones of a slim gal. 22" is just comfortable for skinny folks. More like 28" for the rest of us.. go figure. When you finish your THK just bury the ends as usual.. the loop is many feet of line away from the ends and can never shift to the end. Again the pictue… 10,000 words.
Hi again,
To avoid some confusion "Para Cord" is the military specification cord from the USA military, once used as the shroud lines on parachutes, that has a 550# rating. It is an over braid and a seven line core... all of nylon. It comes in many colors now (as in the old days of only one... od green.) It has only one diameter, about 2mm. You can visit some cool sites to see it ub "party colors". It is all about 2mm, depending on how you read your micrometer. Which comes back to the removal of the core. Please do not add to the confusion... Para cord with the core stipped out has no common name in the IGKT.. but many members use it that way. I've got about 600' of "fake" para cord.. no core at all and an overbraid that is not the milspec nylon. I use it up as fast as I can... but golly! So to help us all, "Para cord" is the USA military specification 'chute cord from WWII and before, 550# rated and having a outerbraid and a seven cord core. All Nylon. Which really doesn't help you with your post but may help posts in the future. Now, back to "how to put a lanyard on a flashlight." I often put a complex Turks Head Knot on the item and leave a loop to attach to. This looks pretty cool and is very easy to do. I do not use the ends for the loop. Pick a THK. Tie it around your object (flashligtht). As you double the ply, at any point in the process of doubling, take an outside turn in the working end before continuing on. The outside turn is the necklace. Soon you will see a two or three ply THK with a loop hanging in space. That will be your necklace. Work slack back into the knot and make your necklace fit the task. Finish the THK. A 16" diameter the loop is a "choker" (sure is on me with my neck). 18" sits on the colar bones of a slim gal. 22" is just comfortable for skinny folks. More like 28" for the rest of us.. go figure. When you finish your THK just bury the ends as usual.. the loop is many feet of line away from the ends and can never shift to the end. Again the pictue... 10,000 words.
Thanks PABPRES, I do have para #550 and #450 and a short length of the hollow “fake para” too!
black and OD. But getting my tremonology right is important especialy here! I guess what i used was the thinnest diameter I could find locally (and just called it “paracord”. (although the removing of the black “thread” did make a noticeable difference in the suppleness of the cord for whatever reason, helping it fit in the groove, that is now hidden by the green mystery cord)
My man objective was to get rid of the full size metal clip on this HDS EDC light that made it cumbersome to deploy.If you see the waist it’s tapered for a “cigar hold”, thumb activated,
or “fist hold” Hand/finger’s around the barrel, and activate the light with the thumb or fore finger.
I am pretty happy about the length and placement of the cord to the neck lanyard, I use a standard "wide soft"
unit(flat’ish but hollow) we use in the music industry (really good for
times your wearing a pass, light, mojo bag($$, etc) very comfortable to wear for extended times.)
So from my pic you can see the green cord terminating
at just were the hook for the lanyard starts. The length works perfect, hanging at just the right angle for deploying with either grasp.
But your advice is educational and much appreciated!
any advice is very helpful on better way to secure the knotted sections and the materials to do so. always feel free to mentor me on this anytime.
I am enjoying learning here I worked on knot's tonight, ending up making a couple of short ones, a circle stitch for a keychain fob, an practicing, I made a short square sinnet knot lanyard for my syderco dodo,
and practiced a braid knot, and a zepplin bend.
Didn’t know this could relaxing and fun for a 42 yr old man! VDG
I will post some pic’s of the stock light and the knoted new setup with lanyard later.
Is the "groove" the knurled shallow of the light (and so in your photo the lanyard
is off of the groove). Unless it is a very fine groove that the lanyard is occupying!
You could try putting an extra turn in the Buntline, to make it grip better.
I.e., tie a Rolling Hitch (Tautline noose), probably best oriented with the end’s
Half-hitch against the light.
Or, bettter, find an image of Blake’s Hitch (Google will help). Just tie this but with
briefest form–just one Round Turn and then one tuck. (That is, tie the hitch in place
of the Buntline, making a noose; don’t tie it, like a Constrictor, to the light.)
knudeNoggin
I will post two pic’s, one with the restrictive clip to show the reason for making a knotted rig, and one of the light (last light on the right, next to battery) that show’s the groove much better:
OT, but man I need a new keyboard!I was checking my post’s, an every other letter is missing or incompete! I am a terrible typist but not this bad! VDG
I will post two pic's, ... This gives you an idea of what I did to the light to make it more useable.
The cord sit's n the groove but is think enough to extend past it. VDG
A picture's worth a thousand words, but here I think a few words would be clearer:
the thin cord must sit in a thin groove--that was the earlier question. (I.e., at
least that's the hope, not to preclude other solutions.)
While some of the nooses suggested should suffice, I think we’re missing maybe
the optimal solution here, in terms of groove-fitting. In those nooses, the knot
either draws the cord out of the groove (Buntline, Rolling Hitch) or maybe forces
some part of the knot towards the groove (that min.Blake’s (ProhClamp) Hitch).
See this as a line joined to itself, and the knot is … OFFSET–as in the rockclimbers’ infamous “EDK”/Offset Oh. Bend, OOB.
Optimal, IMO, is for the cord to surround the object completely (practically) and abutt
itself and both ends rise up into an offset bend. Here’s a solution:
leaving sufficient length of end to wrap the object and finish with an Overhand knot,
tie a Dbl.Oh. in the SPart, and bring the end around and up through it; and then
set the Dbl.Oh (now, with the end through it, a Strangle) tight;
set the cord tight in the groove by pulling the end and pushing down on the Strangle;
finish by tying an Overhand knot with the end around the SPart snug to the Strangle
(and note that no other stopper (?!) can be set snug like this).
Climbers & canyoneers like the offset bends for joining abseil ropes so that when
being pulled down over a surface the rope flows easily, the knot lying off of the
axis of pull and deftly bouncing away from impediments–see this by pulling the OOB
and then any other bend in cordage over the edge of a desk, e.g..
YOU for this task should like the offset nature for enabling your cord to so fully
surround the object while sitting in the thin groove.
–dl*
postscript: It is important that you Login when you post–else you don’t garner one
of those cute little knotty dealies that ranks you as either Lost, Occasional, Regular,
Beyond-Hope, or Obsessed. (If one goes beyond Obsession, the knotties lose their
luster and darken, and then you must contribute real work.)
A picture's worth a thousand words, but here I think a few words would be clearer:
the thin cord must sit in a thin groove--that was the earlier question. (I.e., at
least that's the hope, not to preclude other solutions.)
While some of the nooses suggested should suffice, I think we’re missing maybe
the optimal solution here, in terms of groove-fitting. In those nooses, the knot
either draws the cord out of the groove (Buntline, Rolling Hitch) or maybe forces
some part of the knot towards the groove (that min.Blake’s (ProhClamp) Hitch).
See this as a line joined to itself, and the knot is … OFFSET–as in the rockclimbers’ infamous “EDK”/Offset Oh. Bend, OOB.
Optimal, IMO, is for the cord to surround the object completely (practically) and abutt
itself and both ends rise up into an offset bend. Here’s a solution:
leaving sufficient length of end to wrap the object and finish with an Overhand knot,
tie a Dbl.Oh. in the SPart, and bring the end around and up through it; and then
set the Dbl.Oh (now, with the end through it, a Strangle) tight;
set the cord tight in the groove by pulling the end and pushing down on the Strangle;
finish by tying an Overhand knot with the end around the SPart snug to the Strangle
(and note that no other stopper (?!) can be set snug like this).
Climbers & canyoneers like the offset bends for joining abseil ropes so that when
being pulled down over a surface the rope flows easily, the knot lying off of the
axis of pull and deftly bouncing away from impediments–see this by pulling the OOB
and then any other bend in cordage over the edge of a desk, e.g..
YOU for this task should like the offset nature for enabling your cord to so fully
surround the object while sitting in the thin groove.
–dl*
postscript: It is important that you Login when you post–else you don’t garner one
of those cute little knotty dealies that ranks you as either Lost, Occasional, Regular,
Beyond-Hope, or Obsessed. (If one goes beyond Obsession, the knotties lose their
luster and darken, and then you must contribute real work.)
:
OK i will have to research what you have laid out. I understand most of it expect the actual knot’s, but that’s why i am here! and not the just the short term, i really am finding this fun.
I see what you mean with only half the cord seated fully in the slot, the knot is trying to pull it out?
(readers digest version) I will investigate those knot’s
mentioned.
I am showing logged in, but once i hit "post" on this one, I will pay attention in case I got my CP settings wrong. Thanks again for more ideas
The main reason to log in is that you can correct your posts if you have made a mistake, or lost letters.
That it count the number of posts will only show how often someone does post but not the quality of the posts.
... a buntline hitch for the groove n the light. it's seem's strong but has loosed up a bit then i sinch it tight.
what i want is a loop knot that once tied tight won't loosen at all, or alt least close
Is the "groove" the knurled shallow of the light (and so in your photo the lanyard
is off of the groove). Unless it is a very fine groove that the lanyard is occupying!
You could try putting an extra turn in the Buntline, to make it grip better.
I.e., tie a Rolling Hitch (Tautline noose), probably best oriented with the end’s
Half-hitch against the light.
Or, bettter, find an image of Blake’s Hitch (Google will help). Just tie this but with
briefest form–just one Round Turn and then one tuck. (That is, tie the hitch in place
of the Buntline, making a noose; don’t tie it, like a Constrictor, to the light.)
) it doesn’t have a core persay, but part of the weave was a stiffer black thread piece then the rest and i yanked it and it fit the groove well, but does stickout more then i wanted . (wish they made a 1mm paracold in OD green, or camo.
