Knots for towing

Practical Knots
1

G’day!

Forgive me for my sin, it’s been a long time since I visited :slight_smile:

I’ve been thinking lately on the best knots to come untied after a very heavy load. More of a thought exercise than a real situation, but to give it some practical direction, I imagine a hypothetical scenario of towing a pallet of bricks, or a vehicle/machinery with brakes locked. Something like that.

I’m also really interested in hearing of experiences or warnings people have about knots jamming when they didn’t expect or hoped they wouldn’t - which is sort of coming at the same thought from the other side.

Some contenders to discuss:

Round turn and two half hitches
The round turn takes a lot of strain off the half hitches, so I figure this would probably work in most cases. But at a certain point, do the half hitches get irritatingly tight?

Backhand hitch
I believe I’ve seen data that showed that the munter becomes a little more effective than a single round turn as the load goes up. Even if that’s not true, it’s comparable to a round turn, and can be done in one pass around the object which I prefer.

If really in doubt, I suppose 3+ round turns would work, but I guess the point is to find a fun alternative to that :smiley:

Bowline. Fundamentally easy to undo, right? But is there a point where it jams?

Zeppelin bend to make a sling, and then girth hitch?
The length of the sling could get fiddly, so playing with shortening it would seem to make this non-optimal. But it’d always come undone easily, yeah?

Zeppelin loop
I find this complicated to tie so I sort of avoid it but maybe it’d be a good fit

Pile hitch
I’ve used this over a tow ball before and it worked well, though it was not a heavy tow. I can’t imagine any way this would ever jam, right? Seems a great fit when you have an open end ‘pile’ to hitch to.

‘Temporary tow hitch’ - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VB7qAlihcUQ
I don’t know what this knot is really called or have any other info about it. It’s sort of neat. Anybody used it?

‘Marlingspike hitch with a bight’
Correct me on the terminology here, but I mean passing around the hitch object, grabbing both sides of your line, turning in a marlinspike hitch, and puting a toggle through. Seems good to me, but would love to hear opinions on this. I kind like that you get a slipped halter hitch (I think) after removing the toggle.

I look forward to hearing your thoughts.

2

If the overriding consideration is ease of untying, a simple Timber Hitch will be an obvious contender:

https://notableknotindex.webs.com/timberhitch.html

The Sailor’s Hitch (ABoK 1688) also unties reliably:

https://notableknotindex.webs.com/sailorhitches.html

And there are friction-based load-shedding strategies that can be used to reduce loads on other hitches, such as seen in the third diagram here:

https://notableknotindex.webs.com/slippedbuntline.html

3

Hi Someone,

I reckon the two methods shown here would do the trick for you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRo1dcz3gBU

4

There are some tactics one can employ so as to
mitigate tightness, in general.

Round turn and two half hitches
The round turn takes a lot of strain off the half hitches,
so I figure this would probably work in most cases.
But at a certain point, do the half hitches get irritatingly tight?

There’s no law that says that Only Knots Named In Some Damn
Knots Book May Be Used!" Here, e.g., go RT & then the
Backhanded (Munter) structure, and one should have
mitigated force flowing to the clove-h. finish (=2HH).

Backhand hitch
I believe I’ve seen data that showed that the munter
becomes a little more effective than a single round turn as the load goes up.

Yes, that’s my impression, too, in doing some various
loading of things I try stressing w/a pulley. And see
above about using BOTH!

If really in doubt, I suppose 3+ round turns would work,
but I guess the point is to find a fun alternative to that :smiley:

Or to accept it, as noted above.
(Among anglers knots is such a variation of the older
Palomar knot, supposedly to deal with the super slippery
“gel-spun” HMPE lines.)

Bowline. Fundamentally easy to undo, right?

Yeah, though it’s interesting to read in Knot Books
that (a) the BWL won’t jam" and then for the Water
BWL (b) that it resists jamming that might happen
with that never-jamming BWL !!

But is there a point where it jams?

It can capsize into a sort of pile-hitch noose,
and it can get tight in the collar in some materials.
There are many variations of BWLs to consider
which must include some that avoid these risks.
(Cf. PACI paper Bowline Analysis.)

Zeppelin bend to make a sling, and then girth hitch?

Which hitch could take a RT, do note.
Nothing so magic about Thrun’s/Zep. bend,
which recent loading video showed doing some
amazing, untoward distortions at high load;
I’d favor Ashley’s #1408, 1452; and one could
tie a share-eye joint of BWLS (i.e., each end
begins a BWL w/the nipping turn, then reaches
to finish the OTHER’s BWL, reciprocally,
AND THEN w/long-enough tail, closEnuff knots,
bring the tails back through each’s own knot
for a 3rd diameter nipped. QED.

Pile hitch
I’ve used this over a tow ball before and it worked well,
though it was not a heavy tow.
I can’t imagine any way this would ever jam, right?

  1. How to orient that hitch :: does the loaded part turn
    around the object and then SHARPLY around the S.Part,
    or go the other path, continuing same direction of turning
    and the other part makes the sharp turn?
  2. For you case, have the loaded part (alone) make a RT
    and THEN … finish the knot.

Seems a great fit when you have an open end ‘pile’ to hitch to.

It’s not as though it’s a beast to tie, otherwise
–just that the over-the-end tying is so simple!

5

To compare common methods of hitch to a spar jamming reduction you may want to see this: https://forum.igkt.net/index.php?topic=7281.0

6

The engineering components i try to show in knots, is also my mnemonic form to remember by needed engineering functions chose knot for and thus am reaching for.
In this, a Pile Hitch is a hybrid between Crossed and Backhand Turn ‘components’, w/less SPart distortion pulled from Crossed Turn side.
So i bluff to Clove and go to Muenter/Backhand finish to extrude Pile form when on ring or closed bar instead of hook or other open end for usual trick.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9b/Load-pile-sailors-icicle-by-crossed-not-backhand-turn-side-png8.png

i think lacings pulled in reverse direction have same arc total frictions, but change in SPart can give strength/efficiency change and then also nip points change to frictions total possible too.
.
Mr. Ashley several times calls out likes BackHand Turn for single pass for Double Bearing and also shows RT/double bearing on a small host as wear sharing for longer lasting on smaller hosts.
.
This has been on Youtube awhile, not best naming, does distort SPart and use it’s raw force for the lock; 2 things usually would shy from for greater strength efficiency and sometimes easier untie.
This enthusiastic person thinks his way is best, and does have merit especially if tested at these full load ranges as claimed. https://youtube.com/shorts/xf7N4CdrRco
.
When say towing ball , it makes me think of weakest pull point of not usually fortified: Ball Hitch.

would always and all ways favor pulling straight from frame inline; especially if no towing package framework to ball, and is just a ‘bumper ball’ so don’t get bent or removed bumper. Would not just want perpendicular support of bumper to pull direction but underneath vehicle 2 members stretching from ball towards front of vehicle to then join frame, possibly with a cross member at that point between them for side force amplitudes frame not designed for and now added.
ALSO, a tow ball is not a friendly flat bar run, but rather has at least one side slanted(ball side)on mounting (both sides if bottom side reinforced with slant to ball post) to not only give a pull force but a squish force towards seizing when might not otherwise when 2 rope parts touch one side of ball to be pinched together by the ‘ramp(s)’ effect , and easier to see glazing and fusing i think. Cow, Girth and even RT noted hear.
.
If have tow ring to frame exposed can can reeve or RT(more tension reduction at this point before output) thru ring, then to ball if want more safely as that tension does directionally run with simple bumper(not shearing across) especially after ring takes brunt of loading and impacts(RT favored here on ring before ball finale).

7

There is also this simple temporary tow method: https://youtu.be/VB7qAlihcUQ

You may want to keep it tensioned as it may shake itself lose when slack, but it’s also super easy to untie.

8

I used to tie an axle hitch, then I went to a Portuguese bowline, then I tried to complicate it even more, until I finally accepted a regular bowline usually works just fine. Now, that is my default–bowline unless there’s a reason no to.

9

IMO, this is a simple, BAD idea.

  1. It is of dubious stability --the tyer here choosing flexible rope.
  2. It has but a single bearing around the object,
    which in the red-roped later-in-video situation is going
    through a not-so-kind_to_rope-looking ring.
  3. It is not any quicker to tie than various BWLesque
    structures --say, wrapping a U-fold around the object,
    and bringing out u-fold apex & tail and casting a HH
    around them, then a 2nd HH >>back<< around this
    first one (so, not a Clove pairing) !
  4. Ease of untying is a lower concern; we should accept
    happily that a structure can be reasonably readily untied
    –there’s no prize for being first, unlike a potential penalty
    for popping a HH under tow load!

#3’s structure is a quite handy one I’ve employed
as a bag knot and in a sheepshank, and then … it
wanders, looking to other things! The 2nd cast HH
surrounds and nips the first --dress & set it to hold
that. It doesn’t have the force wanting to capsize
it as does a normal sheepshank vs. its lone (or outermost)
HH.

Cheers,
–dl*

10

Actually , I was shown this as a Higginbotham’s for local person thought to have invented it and I believe thou pointed me to ABoK 172,173 as Bellringer during earlier times of your personal generous, patient style even in long distance tutelage of me that has always been treasured and unlike any other. Thanks again.
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I was shown , followed , even ordered we use this configuration when work with a certain leader.
Have rigorously abused , seems stable despite it’s Sheepshank start usually loose Overhand at the dolly eye. It is handy to dispense with rest of length t back of truck/bucket etc. This was always in arborist ropes that handle and take abuse better than any other have found thru many types of rough/ not pristine environments and tasks.
Same initial SPart deformity as Bowline.
.
Am great fan of double bearing builds for ABoK interlaced whispers in passing of wear sharing on smaller hosts , more balanced and side to side stabilization when not pure right angle pull against host to even one type of base for lengthwise pulls. But do NOT favor on any host pinches together more than slightly as for fair sized hook. Many times nasty fusing and other seizing properties fought especially if further complicated if shrinking eye to host main build. A tow ball (should be reinforced from bumper 90 degree pull to softer angle of fails from ball forward to each side of frame or use frame to pull from directly) has at least 1 slanted side from ball using pull force to then make pinch forces we don’t usually see. Further complicated if post (for ball) is slanted to be stronger, that slant + ball curve make as a sideways V that gives great pinch force problems to double bearings usually so trusted. Same if double bearing on a small link especially in dynamic hits. Clevis usually more generous spread generally.
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Usually went with fave DBY , perhaps carabineer loose keeper to rope or eye to bumper hole so no chance of eye lifting up/off ball , especially longer eye in 5/8"+. Kinda ABoK hook mousing strategy a few times of paracord laced thru holes either side of ball to assure stiffer eye doesn’t spirit off as have seen in stiff , heavy tow strap eyes. Mostly ropes 1/2" 7k tho, dragging logs, puling trees over or pulling dead truck and it’s trailer back to shop etc. Arbo ropes 16 strand have fairly neutral core to stay round, but 12strand is hollow and if is pinched together to crossing on ball can get flat spot. Even long eye DBY place not as simple but rather RT on ball or other small pinching host can find glazing, fusing, flattening. This is a basis for observing carabineer or hook as host for Backhand types adding extra friction than flat hosts in other guests/tests.
Arbo ropes very long lasting dragging stuff in dirty, wet conditions, lowering 500 pounds or more thru arcs on rough bark after taking impacts etc. at production rates daily. Other ropes (in the) pail by comparison.