Omnidirectional-loaded loop with omnidirectional tails?

Perfectly understandable en vacuo, even, and certainly in the context of the OP ! ::)

Thanks Dan, it’s refreshing to be afforded some charity :slight_smile:

The form is roughly that of what Harry Asher named "shakehands" and can be found in ABoK in #1048 IIRC?

Yes! This looks exactly like the corresponding bend, and I didn’t have that reference before.

FYI, a 2-eye version can be formed, where each eye is in the place of a shakehands tail. (And similar things can come from other of the interlocked-overhands end-2-end joins such as #1408 & zeppelin.)

I’m not sure if I follow. How would you go about tying this one?

per jimmyh:

If you have anything object level to say about that heuristic, other better heuristics, the knot I presented, or other omnidirectional loops, I'd love to hear it.
The moment your narrative moves on to technical matters - I am happy to engage. When it strays to personal narrative - I disengage.

In this instance, I will engage.

However, its getting difficult to stay on target with helping the OP.

In point form:

  1. The #551 illustration I referred to (and indeed #582) are all blueprints for tying some quite famous end-to-end joining knots.
    You can play around with both of these concepts and derive rotated, inverted and other modifications. Ashley missed the significance of these 2 knots in particular.
    One can also play around with #577, #579 and #584 (ie all tied with a bight).

  2. Some very clever knotting colleagues (who lurk in the shadows) alerted me to #2868 in ABoK (chain Sinnet) - which is topologically identical to your presentation.
    Many people use this technique to ‘daisy chain’ their climbing/abseiling ropes.

  3. I am a fan of the Zeppelin bend - and so I naturally gravitate toward #582 (so called blimp knot - but Ashley published it before Budworth - calling it a ‘lanyard knot’). Anything that can be derived from the remarkable Zeppelin bend is going to be of interest. Hence why I posted #582 tied with-a-bight. It can potentially also function mid-line where it is subject to through loading from SPart-to-SPart. However, this induces an offset loading profile - where the knot core is offset from the axis of tension. These types of loading profiles require diligent assessment to determine if they remain stable. My presentation in offset loading profile has not been investigated with any rigor - so it remains in the realm of academia (for now).

  4. The twisted variant of #1053 Butterfly that I also offered needs a round of testing to determine jam resistance in both through loading and eye loading (in EN human rated rope).

  5. The early post by ‘Groundline’ probably deserves the award for best and fastest reply that addresses the OP’s question. #1053 is a proven workhorse of knots. Its used extensively in the rope access industry and also by climbers and rescue technicians. Jamming threshold when eye loaded (in EN human rated ropes) is around 2.0kN - 2.5kN (give or take). Needs to be fully investigated. Dan Lehman likes to point out that crossing the eye legs of #1053 (per Wright & Magowan 1928) might boost jamming threshold to 3.0kN? No one has undertaken any serious testing in EN human rated ropes - except maybe Richard Delaney…but his test results are not free in the public internet space (you have to pay to get access).

  6. Rightly or Wrongly, I have no interest in non human rated rope material. I am an advocate for testing with EN human rated ropes - because they are built to a defined and tightly controlled standard. Going to your local hardware store to purchase el cheapo cord and testing that and then publishing results makes it near impossible for others to repeat the claimed test results. Using ropes that meet a certain specified standard makes it easier for other testers to try to repeat your results. Also, there are many people who have an interest in knots used in life critical applications - and so ropes that conform to an EN standard will produce meaningful test results.

  7. With specific regard to your original presentation (which was not shown tied with-a-bight or in offset loading profile) I think there are better offerings. Its hard to beat #1053 given its widespread deployment in the past 70 years. tsik_lestat has offered up an interesting presentation in his post (EHL). This offering is (in my view) superior to yours - particularly in through loading profile (SPart-to-SPart)…it isn’t offset.


Sinnet_chain_2868.png

Re your imaged / lower knot,
that re-tucking of the eye bight
is a way to take what we might call
the "non-Alpine butterfly" knot into
decent stability (that knot where the
overhands don’t interlock, which MIGHT
show some separation of parts thus if
loaded on one of the SParts).

:slight_smile:

The moment your narrative moves on to technical matters - I am happy to engage. When it strays to personal narrative - I disengage.

Does this mean I’m free to disagree and point out [what I see as] your technical errors without you saying that I’m being “too bold” again? I guess we’ll find out :slight_smile:

In this instance, I will engage.

Good. I’m glad.

1. The #551 illustration I referred to (and indeed #582) are all blueprints for tying some quite famous end-to-end joining knots. You can play around with both of these concepts and derive rotated, inverted and other modifications. Ashley missed the significance of these 2 knots in particular. One can also play around with #577, #579 and #584 (ie all tied with a bight).

Is there any reason to suspect 577/579/584 will result in good properties?

2. Some very clever knotting colleagues (who lurk in the shadows) alerted me to #2868 in ABoK (chain Sinnet) - which is topologically identical to your presentation. Many people use this technique to 'daisy chain' their climbing/abseiling ropes.

While you can daisy chain in the way that iterates on the knot I presented, that puts in a half turn per stage, and isn’t how daisy chaining is normally done. Daisy chaining as normally done and as presented in 2868 is iterated crossing knots, not overhands.

I suspect that modifying the knot I presented to have a crossing knot second stage will still result in good properties, but I haven’t played with it enough to verify.

3. I am a fan of the Zeppelin bend - and so I naturally gravitate toward #582 (so called blimp knot - but Ashley published it before Budworth - calling it a 'lanyard knot'). Anything that can be derived from the remarkable Zeppelin bend is going to be of interest
.

Agreed. I think the only real downsides relative to the one I presented are that you can’t tie it as simply as a 2 stage chain sinnet, and it takes special care to dress whereas the one I presented self dresses pretty well just by tensioning the eye and standing parts.

5. [...]Jamming threshold when eye loaded (in EN human rated ropes) is around 2.0kN - 2.5kN (give or take).

In other words, ~10% of tensile strength. We’ve been over this though. Other than jamming when eye loaded more than lightly (especially in one direction) it’s a great knot. I use it far more than the one I presented (“Shakehands with a bight” isn’t quite right. “Shakehands loop”?)

6. Rightly or Wrongly, I have no interest in non human rated rope material. I am an advocate for testing with EN human rated ropes - because they are built to a defined and tightly controlled standard. Going to your local hardware store to purchase el cheapo cord and testing that and then publishing results makes it near impossible for others to repeat the claimed test results.
Even if hanging on them is your only use for knots and you need the associated rigor to make sure you don't fall to your death, you're still missing a lot of advantages if you don't do preliminary play/study with small line.

Small scale tests are far easier to do and therefore the feedback rate is higher. In the time it takes you to ponder how you’re going to set up your jamming threshold test I can do it with small line without leaving the couch and tell you what your answer is going to be. Yes, I won’t be able to get within 3% and yes, if you change material to dyneema or something you might get wildly different results. However, at the end of the day a bowline is a bowline and nylon is nylon. I’ll eat my words if you can find a nylon rope of any kind on which a simple bowline jams at 10% tensile strength. The certifications are for making sure of what you already know and ruling out odd surprises, not for learning new things.

Fast feedback for exploration. Rigor for nailing down.

4. The twisted variant of #1053 Butterfly that I also offered needs a round of testing to determine jam resistance in both through loading and eye loading (in EN human rated rope).

This is a good example. Let me know if you want to know what your test will say :wink:

Its hard to beat #1053 given its widespread deployment in the past 70 years.

Yes, if the eye loading is going to be <10% of the line strength 1053 is my preferred choice as well (deja vu?). Just because all you do with ropes is hang on them doesn’t mean that’s all that exists or that it’s what OP will do.

tsik_lestat has offered up an interesting presentation in his post (EHL).

Lestat’s EHL does look like an interesting one, and for all I know could be a great alternative. Thanks for pointing it out. I just have to figure out how to tie it.

This offering is (in my view) superior to yours

Your latest suggestion is interesting for the same reason that SS369’s is; it’s a small modification to the otherwise go-to knot which improves on that knot’s weak point. In cases where you only need a modest increase in jam resistance over what 1053 provides, I’m sure it’s great and I might even use it myself. The problem is that, assuming I’m tying this correctly (pass the eye through the center again, no?), when you actually load it heavily, it jams too.

So it depends on what you’re looking for in a knot. If you know the loads are going to be reasonably low relative to the strength of your line, and you would rather use less line, your knot is better. If you want one knot that you don’t have to think about because it works for every situation, it is objectively inferior.

particularly in through loading profile (SPart-to-SPart)....it isn't offset.

I share your distaste and suspicion for offset loading, and it can definitely cause problems. However, there are a couple problems with the idea of using it as a strict rule-out criteria.

First, the bad news: you can’t really escape it. If you want to have a TIB eye knot that doesn’t have some unused eye “tail” somewhere, you’re going to get offset loading in some loading profile. The latest one you offer, for example, just trades so that it is offset in ring loading instead of through loading. Again, if you have a specific use in mind this might be fine. If we’re talking about a knot that is good for true omnidirectional capability, you’re going to have to relax that requirement.

The good news is that you can. Offset (ring) loading 1053 doesn’t seem to cause any problems. Neither does offset loading the tentatively named “shakehands loop”, when dressed properly. After snugging it up, I haven’t been able to get it to jam on through loading let alone capsize (though it can jam if left too loose before loading). I haven’t tested all the way to failure, but I’ve tested it at tension that was able to get 1053 and even your modification thereof to jam and it was totally fine.

You can wait until you get a rigorous test with EN human rated rope before you believe it if you want, but it won’t be any less true in the meantime.

Per jimmyh:

This thread topic is taking on the character of a contest of knowledge.
I think you need to start an entirely new topic post.

Post your propositions in a new topic.

Very briefly: (and I think this concludes the contest)

While you *can* daisy chain in the way that iterates on the knot I presented
? There are several different ways of chaining a rope (climbing rope or otherwise). I didn't know that it was necessary to expand upon that basic point with notional concepts of twist/induced torsion?
I think the only real downsides relative to the one I presented are that you can't tie it as simply as a 2 stage chain sinnet, and it takes special care to dress whereas the one I presented self dresses pretty well just by tensioning the eye and standing parts.
and so?
In other words, ~10% of tensile strength.
and so? I prefer to quantify in terms of % of the knots MBS yield point.
Small scale tests are far easier to do and therefore the feedback rate is higher. In the time it takes you to ponder how you're going to set up your jamming threshold test I can do it with small line without leaving the couch and tell you what your answer is going to be.
This statement has the character of a contest of knowledge and experience. It needs to be elaborated on in an entirely new topic post.
Fast feedback for exploration. Rigor for nailing down.
This statement has the character of a contest of knowledge and experience. It needs to be elaborated on in an entirely new topic post.
This is a good example. Let me know if you want to know what your test will say
This statement has the character of a contest of knowledge and experience.
Your latest suggestion is interesting for the same reason that SS369's is; it's a small modification to the otherwise go-to knot which improves on that knot's weak point.
? This statement has the character of a contest of knowledge and experience. Small modification by who's version of reality?
The problem is that, assuming I'm tying this correctly (pass the eye through the center again, no?), when you actually load it heavily, it jams too.
You assume incorrectly. No - it doesn't jam as you purport.
I share your distaste and suspicion for offset loading, and it can definitely cause problems
No - you dont "share" my "distaste" - because I don't actually have a "distaste". My point is that knots loaded in an offset loading profile require a higher burden of proof. The tester needs to be diligent - to confirm stability.
First, the bad news: you can't really escape it. If you want to have a TIB eye knot that doesn't have some unused eye "tail" somewhere, you're going to get offset loading in *some* loading profile.
? This statement makes no sense. Might need a diagram to clarify what you mean by 'eye tail'.
The good news is that you can. Offset (ring) loading 1053 doesn't seem to cause any problems.
? Your notional understanding of what 'offset' is (within the context of an end-to-end joining knot) - appears to be incorrect. #1053 Butterfly isn't an offset knot per se... that is, the derived Butterfly bend isn't 'offset'. But, 'ring' loading the eye of a #1053 Butterfly would be an example of inducing an 'offset' loading profile on the knot core. In a sense, take #1053 Butterfly and then cut the eye. The 2 cut legs of the former 'eye' - if bi-axially loaded - would now be an offset loading profile. But, I am not sure what all of this has to do within the broader topic of this thread?
Neither does offset loading the tentatively named "shakehands loop", when dressed properly.
? All bends have corresponding eye knot(s). The shake hands bend isn't offset...but, it is possible that some of its derived eye knots might exhibit the character of offset where the eye is circumferentially loaded. I'd have to see images of these derived eye knots. Again, you would cut the eye which now creates 2 'legs' - which when bi-axially loaded, might induce an offset loading profile on the knot core. and related comment...
I haven't tested all the way to failure, but I've tested it at tension that was able to get 1053 and even your modification thereof to jam and it was totally fine.
#1053 Butterfly is jam resistant in through loading (SPart-to-SPart) loading. My alleged 'modification' that you allude to isn't a simple modification to #1053. My presentation has 4 rope diameters around which the SParts turn and is also jam resistant in through loading. It also holds up very well to eye loading (haven't had time to heavily eye load as yet).
You can wait until you get a rigorous test with EN human rated rope before you believe it if you want, but it won't be any less true in the meantime.
This statement has the character of a contest of knowledge.
Small scale tests are far easier to do and therefore the feedback rate is higher. In the time it takes you to ponder how you're going to set up your jamming threshold test I can do it with small line without leaving the couch and tell you what your answer is going to be.
Would that this were so, but you need like rope & forces and I don't accept the transferability of % behavior of one rope to another (we see already the cases contradicting this).
First, the bad news: you can't really escape it. If you want to have a TIB eye knot that doesn't have some unused eye "tail" somewhere, you're going to get offset loading in *some* loading profile.
? This statement makes no sense. Might need a diagram to clarify what you mean by 'eye tail'.
I take it to mean that the knot needs to have EVERY *end* (= "exiting from nub strand") separate, no twin. In the [i]butterfly[/i], e.g., one finishes by ... drawing out a >>bight<< which bight legs are "twin"'d and so can be ring-loaded to be in *offset* orientation re the knot.

.:. It’s an interesting conjecture --provably true/false?
Well, heck, now your tying up my evening thinking!
(Right after I invent the perpetual-motion device.)

The good news is that you can. Offset (ring) loading 1053 doesn't seem to cause any problems.
? Your notional understanding of what 'offset' is (within the context of an end-to-end joining knot) - appears to be incorrect. #1053 Butterfly isn't an offset knot per se... that is, the derived Butterfly bend isn't 'offset'. But, 'ring' loading the eye of a #1053 Butterfly would be an example of inducing an 'offset' loading profile on the knot core. In a sense, take #1053 Butterfly and then cut the eye. The 2 cut legs of the former 'eye' - if bi-axially loaded - would now be an offset loading profile.
Right, you've got it (the sense of "offset loading"). And I think that the [i]butterfly[/i] might, like e.g. #1052, flype into a version of itself?!
All bends have corresponding eye knot(s).
How's this working for the [i]squaREef knot[/i]!?

This character has the knowledge of a contest of statements.

:wink:

This thread topic is taking on the character of a contest of knowledge.
To use your phrasing, the idea it's a "contest of knowledge" to *me* only exists in your narrative. It doesn't exist in mine, nor, I expect, in anyone else's.

An alternative way you might consider viewing it is “disagreeing” or “showing you things that you don’t seem to have considered”, and in that alternative perspective you may consider saying “here’s why I don’t think that is true” or “ah, good point” (depending on which is appropriate).

If you’re too focused on “the contest” to actually get into a discussion where we can actually explore disagreements, then I guess we can’t do this. Oh well.

Small scale tests are far easier to do and therefore the feedback rate is higher. In the time it takes you to ponder how you're going to set up your jamming threshold test I can do it with small line without leaving the couch and tell you what your answer is going to be. This statement has the character of a contest of knowledge and experience.

I’ll pick this first one as an example, but the point is the same for the rest.

Yes, I think you’re doing it wrong and that the way I’m advocating is better. I think that is fine, since it’s about knots, it might actually be true, and it is not adversarial. Sharing knowledge is all about showing each other how we can be doing things better, and if you think you know a better way of doing something and that I’m making a mistake, I would love to hear it.

Yes, if you’re going to make it into a “contest” and take that side, I think you’re going to end up losing this one and so I wouldn’t recommend it. I don’t think it makes me “better” than you or that the resulting “contest” is of any importance, however. There’s no gloating over “winning” and no shame in “losing” such trivialities as it is completely toxic to frame “who gets to learn” as “who has to lose”. I’m happy to “lose” contests here if that means I get to learn, and I suggest you adopt a similar attitude. No one else here, either in my previous interactions or all the reading in between, seems to share this sensitivity.

Small modification by who's version of reality?

I meant it as a compliment, not as a diminishment. If you can take a well known and well-performing knot and add one simple operation that improves it, that is better than doing something entirely new that will need both vetting and committing to memory.

For example, one of my favorite knots I’ve learned here is the simple “Lehman lock” to the bowline, since it is such a simple and physically small modification that works so cleanly and doesn’t have the dressing ambiguity of the Yosemite finish. It is my go to for secure eye knots in everything except climbing (where I suspect that it might work fine, but it’s easy enough to add another pass through), and even as a midline eye knot when I know the direction of loading. Even my preferred tie in knot is simply a “small modification” of Lehman’s small modification, and that additional modification itself could be seen as an alternative implementation of his ideas demonstrated in his EBDB. “Small” is good, in this context.

You assume incorrectly. No - it doesn't jam as you purport.

This comment actually does “have the character of a contest of knowledge and experience” above and beyond asserting a novel concept that I happen to disagree with. Because instead of introducing a new argument or perspective to further the discussion towards agreement and learning, it’s just a flat out “nuh uh” and posturing as if your say so is worth more than mine. If you were more interested in learning than not-losing you might instead ask “Did you actually succeed in getting one to jam? Under what conditions? How did you tie it, exactly?” and see if you can’t replicate it.

Again, assuming I have tied it correctly (eye through the center again, right?), it does in fact jam at sufficient tension in eye loading (which, as you’ve admitted, you haven’t tested yourself). I have a jammed knot sitting on my table and I can mail it to you if you’d like. Fair warning, it isn’t in EN human rated rope, but it does exist and hint pretty strongly about what you’re going to find in your rope.

This statement makes no sense. Might need a diagram to clarify what you mean by 'eye tail'.

It is a little hard to follow, I’ll try again. If you tie a bowline with a bight you end up with three eyes; the eye of the parent knot forms two while the tail forms one.

If a knot is TIB, you make it by pulling a bight through things and looping around and shit. When you pull it through something, that “intermediate knot” now has an “eye” that is functioning like a “tail”. With some things, like the butterfly loop, this eye is the eye to be used and the knot is done. In others, like a bowline on a bight, it is looped around and snugged up so that there is no eye left and no “tail”. However, when doing this, you cannot loop it around only one of the standing parts without passing the end through and making it no longer TIB. If you keep things TIB and loop around both, then both of those standing parts will now exit the knot through the same bight and tension between them will offset load the loop. The choice just becomes where you would like the offset loading to be, or whether you’d like to give up TIB.

Your notional understanding of what 'offset' is (within the context of an end-to-end joining knot) - appears to be incorrect. [...] 'ring' loading the eye of a #1053 Butterfly would be an example of inducing an 'offset' loading profile on the knot core. In a sense, take #1053 Butterfly and then cut the eye. The 2 cut legs of the former 'eye' - if bi-axially loaded - would now be an offset loading profile. But, I am not sure what all of this has to do within the broader topic of this thread?

No, you get it fine. Ring loading is offset loading for 1053. You don’t have to cut the other end because the knot can’t know the difference.

The relevance is that the thread is about loops that can be loaded and perform well omnidirectionally. One of these directions the load can be applied is for the eye to be pulled apart in ring loading, which induces an offset loading profile on 1053. Since every TIB knot presented (and I argue that all possible) are offset loaded under some direction of loading, saying “this knot is worse because it’s offset loaded” can only be a valid decision criteria if you narrow your set of applications from “omni” to “less than omni” – or at least prioritize certain loading directions over others.

>
You can wait until you get a rigorous test with EN human rated rope before you believe it if you want, but it won't be any less true in the meantime.
This statement has the character of a contest of knowledge.

That’s what it feels like from the inside when you make a bold statement that is wrong and then dig in when someone points out that it is wrong. It’s entirely possible to entertain corrections without viewing them as an affront or digging in, and this is a very valuable skill to develop and put to use.

For example, I have said definitively that there exist no TIB eye knots without an unused eye that are not offset loaded in at least one direction. This, like your statement, is kinda bold as it is a statement of impossibility. You could prove me wrong (assuming I’m wrong) by simply showing me a counterexample. If you tell me that I’m flat out pong wrong there, I would be excited to be corrected. I wouldn’t take it as you “wanting to compete” because so long as you can actually show me where I went wrong, “wanting to share knowledge with peers” would be just as fitting an explanation and it would be silly (and defensive) to jump to assuming the worst instead of assuming the best. One doesn’t have to identify with or fight to preserve their beliefs when they’re wrong, nor does one have to be even slightly bothered when the other person is secretly or not so secretly getting off on having “one upped” them. If you genuinely teach me something surprising, I’m happy for you to have that if it’s important to you; you’d have earned it, after all. If it’s not, great.

I am simply saying that big knots in some material behave similarly to small knots in the same material, and therefore the test in big rope will be well predicted by the results of the quick and informal test with the small rope. You can take it personally and disengage if you want, but I promise you that it isn’t necessary and that it’s not a personal statement. It’s just a statement about the behavior of knots in rope.

Would that this were so, but you need like rope & forces and I don't accept the transferability of % behavior of one rope to another (we see already the cases contradicting this).

I’m glad you don’t. That makes it interesting :slight_smile:

It obviously isn’t going to be a perfect match, but how far off have you seen it get when comparing (for example) nylon vs nylon? I would be pretty shocked if a simple bowline could be made to jam in any nylon rope, or if a double overhand could be made to resist jamming in any nylon.

On the other hand, if a knot breaks at 50% tensile strength in one rope and 65% in another of the same material I wouldn’t be too surprised.

.:. It's an interesting conjecture --provably true/false? Well, heck, now your tying up my evening thinking! (Right after I invent the perpetual-motion device.)

It sounds like you understood what I was getting at. I suspect it’s provably true, though turning my intuitive and visual (and not foolproof) “proof” into something formal and rigorous has never been my strong point. I’ll have to think if I can get closer to that.

per jimmyh:

To use your phrasing, the idea it's a "contest of knowledge" to *me* only exists in your narrative. It doesn't exist in mine, [b]nor, I expect, in anyone else's[/b].
? The last part of your sentence is what is known as using 'social proof' as a base from which to win an 'argument'. This whole back n forth posting is peculiar and isn't normal. This has all the hallmarks of a person seeking to engage in a contest of knowledge - because it has progressed beyond any notional concept of reasonableness.
Yes, I think you're doing it wrong and that the way I'm advocating is better. I think that is fine, [b]since it's about knots,[/b]
This isn't about knots - its taking on the character of something entirely different and is far removed from the original question posted.

You should start a new topic post.

I think you're going to end up losing this one and so I wouldn't recommend it.
? Happy to be declared the loser. I lost - you win.
If a knot is TIB, you make it by pulling a bight through things and looping around and shit. When you pull it through something, that "intermediate knot" now has an "eye" that is functioning like a "tail". With some things, like the butterfly loop, this eye is the eye to be used and the knot is done. In others, like a bowline on a bight, it is looped around and snugged up so that there is no eye left and no "tail". However, when doing this, you cannot loop it around *only one* of the standing parts without passing the end through and making it no longer TIB. If you keep things TIB and loop around both, then both of those standing parts will now exit the knot through the same bight and tension between them will offset load the loop. The choice just becomes where you would like the offset loading to be, or whether you'd like to give up TIB.
You need to start a new topic thread. This is a discussion that is far removed from the simplicity of the OP question.
For example, one of my favorite knots I've learned here is the simple "Lehman lock" to the bowline, since it is such a simple and physically small modification that works so cleanly and doesn't have the dressing ambiguity of the Yosemite finish. It is my go to for secure eye knots in everything except climbing (where I suspect that it might work fine, but it's easy enough to add another pass through), and even as a midline eye knot when I know the direction of loading. Even my preferred tie in knot is simply a "small modification" of Lehman's small modification, and that additional modification itself could be seen as an alternative implementation of his ideas demonstrated in his EBDB. "Small" is good, in this context.
You need to start a new topic thread. This is a discussion that is far removed from the simplicity of the OP question.
The relevance is that the thread is about loops that can be loaded and perform well omnidirectionally. One of these directions the load can be applied is for the eye to be pulled apart in [b]ring loading[/b], [u]which induces an offset loading profile on 1053[/u]. Since every TIB knot presented (and I argue that all possible) are offset loaded under some direction of loading, saying "this knot is worse because it's offset loaded" can only be a valid decision criteria if you narrow your set of applications from "omni" to "less than omni" -- or at least prioritize certain loading directions over others.
You need to start a new topic thread. This is a discussion that is far removed from the simplicity of the OP question. Circumferential loading of the eye of #1053 Butterfly isn't an accurately explanation of an offset loading profile. Offset loading was devised to explain end-to-end joining knots that are through loaded from SPart to SPart - where the knot core is displaced from the axis of tension. Circumferential loading of an eye (ie hoop stress) of a Butterfly isn't an [i]entirely accurate[/i] description in my view. Also, it is in the realm of academia because the eye of a Butterfly isn't [i]intended [/i]to be circumferentially loaded. However, cutting the eye and then loading the two former eye legs in 180 degree opposition now creates a knot core that is displaced from the axis of tension.
However, cutting the eye and then loading the two former eye legs in 180 degree opposition now creates a knot core that is displaced from the axis of tension.

The behavior of a knot in ring loading is the exact same as it is when you cut the eye legs before pulling on them. I can show you a picture of a butterfly loop in one of these two configurations, and unless I zoom out enough to include the clipped ends or intact eye, you won’t be able to see any difference because there isn’t one. Either it works both loadings or it works for neither, as they are the same thing.

Also, it is in the realm of academia because the eye of a Butterfly isn't intended to be circumferentially loaded

“Omni” means “all”. Either it’s good for all loadings or it it’s a poor suggestion for OP. Take your pick.

Personally, I think it’s a decent suggestion for this thread because it’s simple and does decently well at all loadings, even if not spectacular at all. There is no “intent” baked into a not anyway. They’re just structures that are sometimes better for some things than others.

EDIT:

This whole back n forth posting is peculiar and isn’t normal.

After getting around to reading some more of the current threads, it appears that this is normal for you now (though I thought it wasn’t in the past?). Since it doesn’t seem like a fluke, I think I’m no longer going to put any effort into trying to make a conversation work with you. If it works, then great. If not, I’ll just stop responding.

per jimmyh:

I recommend that you start a new topic thread.

The content has drifted off topic and has at times become a personal narrative.

For example, you have attempted to use social proof to back your narrative and thus attempted to create ill will.

I’m thinking that a moderator will step in if this continues.

The behavior of a knot in ring loading is the exact same as it is when you cut the eye legs before pulling on them. I can show you a picture of a butterfly loop in one of these two configurations, and unless I zoom out enough to include the clipped ends or intact eye, you won't be able to see any difference because there isn't one. Either it works both loadings or it works for neither, as they are the same thing.

I am trying to understand how this relates to the simple question that was originally posted. You are interpreting omni to also encompass circumferential loading of an eye - which (in my view) goes beyond the intent of the OP. It would be a stretch to assume that the OP also intended to seek a knot that could sustain loading along multiple axes - including circumferential loading of an eye… I say this because you are getting into technical territory that most ordinary users would not be concerned with.

I therefore think that your proposition re circumferential loading (hoop stress) of the eye of a Butterfly is traversing territory that belongs in a new topic post.
I also note that you appear to narrow your definition of what you call ‘ring loading’ to be in a singular defined axis, which would favor your apparent insistence that it mimics an offset loading profile.
By your interpretation, there appears to only one axis in which the eye can be expanded? An alternative view might be that it acts like hoop stress - and could exert an outward force in all directions simultaneously. But, if you wish to only apply an expansive force along a defined single axis to favor the notion of offset loading - that is your prerogative. But, again - you should start a new topic thread to explore your propositions.

"Omni" means "all". Either it's good for all loadings or it it's a poor suggestion for OP. Take your pick.
Hmmm, and?
After getting around to reading some more of the current threads, it appears that this *is* normal for you now (though I thought it wasn't in the past?)
? Another peculiar comment - this isn't normal and its personal. I think you will receive a warning from a moderator if you persist in this type of personal narrative.
Since it doesn't seem like a fluke, I think I'm no longer going to put any effort into trying to make a conversation work with you. If it works, then great. If not, I'll just stop responding
Another peculiar comment - and one that is getting personal (again).

I think you have issues which cant be resolved in this topic thread.
This isn’t a conversation - it is inappropriate behavior that is disguised in a topic thread.

I have repeatedly advised that you commence a new topic thread - one where you can expand your ideas.
If you do this - you should refrain from including thinly veiled misbehavior with your narrative.

Lets return to the original topic.
Personal opinions of each other are forbidden and will not be continued. The thread is becoming diluted and not germane to the question asked.
Of course you may continue using personal messages or emails…

SS

As I noted above, not re material per se but the
construction --i.p., kernmantle where flattening can
occur (if it’s not really packed, like some caving ropes ARE)–
can influence jamming.

I don’t know about “jamming” so much, but I have found
nylon (presuming) BWL(s) somewhat jammed --i.e., there
was evident tension within the knot, in the SPart (diminished
diameter, a consequence of stretching) that was not outside
of the knot, and that greater outside diameter’d rope thus
sort of was stoppered from entering & loosening the knot.
(The particular seashore-found case I recall was not hard
to manually loosen.) Otherwise, though arguably beside
a pure “jamming” situation, the BWL can partially capsize
into a pile-hitch noose --SPart’s nipping turn opened to be
an obvious helix vs. loop-- and some tight knots there.

And with an operational test for jamming --i.e., manual
loosening-- one likely sees jamming where per % total
load it wouldn’t be counted (where my hands hurt trying
to loosen, but if I can use some tool, it comes out).

As for the strangle knot,
I’m with some ambivalence : on the one hand,
it’s a knot intended to be secure-when-slack
(which something jammed sure is), but it also
has more material in it than a mere overhand,
and so … more to work with at loosening!?
The tightness of the outer wrap(s) comes
via passage through friction and so gets
some mitigation; the simple overhand has none
and gets full(er) force (though, with less contact
patch area).
(I recall once on some jammed tangle being happy
that I could insert the tip of a hook into some strand
and then apply a pulley’d force on that hook to open
it up enough … !)

On the other hand, if a knot breaks at 50% tensile strength in one rope and 65% in another of the same material I wouldn't be too surprised.
But in the case of different sources, one has to question the test & reporting methods! Is one tester basing % on rating, another on tested value? (Or both on rating, but the ratings are whacko, one size rope vs. another!)
.:. It's an interesting conjecture --provably true/false? Well, heck, now your tying up my evening thinking! (Right after I invent the perpetual-motion device.)

It sounds like you understood what I was getting at. I suspect it’s provably true, though turning my intuitive and visual (and not foolproof) “proof” into something formal and rigorous has never been my strong point. I’ll have to think if I can get closer to that.


I can add one to this : if the Tibby eye knot is TIB,
will the eye knot formed by fusing Tibby’s SPart & Tail
and cutting its eye (to become new SPart/tail) also be TIB?
I know of cases that are so (Angler’s/Perfection loop),
but wonder if all are.

–dl*

As I noted above, not re material per se but the construction --i.p., kernmantle where flattening can occur (if it's not really packed, like some caving ropes ARE)-- can influence jamming.

Hm, interesting. How flattening influences jamming isn’t obvious to me, but it makes sense that it could. The difference between “static” and “dynamic” nylon is construction too, and elongation would definitely be expected to influence propensity to jam.

Maybe flattened material interacts in complex ways depending on geometry, but I expect that a change in elongation would mostly preserve the relative ranking of knots and therefore would allow a lot of what is learned in the convenient test material to carry over to the end use material.

Otherwise, though arguably beside a pure "jamming" situation, the BWL can partially capsize into a pile-hitch noose --SPart's nipping turn opened to be an obvious helix vs. loop-- and some tight knots there.

Yes, I probably should have been clearer that when you’re measuring other properties things could change more. For example, slack security depends quite strongly on the stiffness so construction isn’t a small term. When testing things at high tension (e.g. jamming, strength) the stiffness matters less because the force produced by the tension can be much higher and start to drown out any effects of the stiffness. I would expect capsizing to mostly follow the latter, but the tightness of the initial dressing depends on the stiffness and that can impact capsizing.

And with an operational test for jamming --i.e., manual loosening-- one likely sees jamming where per % total load it wouldn't be counted (where my hands hurt trying to loosen, but if I can use some tool, it comes out).

Yeah, this is something I feel was missing from earlier conversation. It’s a pretty soft curve there, and while plenty of climbers take big whippers and still manage to untie their figure 8s there’s still room for improvement on that front by using some sort of secured bowline. When I had that butterfly loop jam on me after using it to pull a vehicle out of a ditch, I’m not entirely sure I wasn’t able to recover the rope with pliers, but I know for sure that it was way harder than acceptable when there are other solutions like a TIB bowline which would have been easy to undo.

The tightness of the outer wrap(s) comes via passage through friction and so gets some mitigation; the simple overhand has none and gets full(er) force (though, with less contact patch area).

I have to admit, I’m not used to thinking about optimizing knots in this direction! My money would be on the strangle knot but you’re right it’s not trivial and I’ve never checked.

But in the case of different sources, one has to question the test & reporting methods! Is one tester basing % on rating, another on tested value? (Or both on rating, but the ratings are whacko, one size rope vs. another!)

Yep. Science is hard, and details matter. At least knots are simple enough that with some effort we can isolate most of these variables.

.:. It's an interesting conjecture --provably true/false? Well, heck, now your tying up my evening thinking! (Right after I invent the perpetual-motion device.)
It sounds like you understood what I was getting at. I suspect it's provably true, though turning my intuitive and visual (and not foolproof) "proof" into something formal and rigorous has never been my strong point. I'll have to think if I can get closer to that.
I can add one to this : if the Tibby eye knot is TIB, will the eye knot formed by fusing Tibby's SPart & Tail and cutting its eye (to become new SPart/tail) also be TIB? I know of cases that are so (Angler's/Perfection loop), but wonder if all are.
Yes, it works for them all. I thought some more about how to come up with a proof, and that's actually where I started.

If you fuse the two SPart’s together you end up with an “unknot”, and the only difference between a TIB method of tying the original knot vs the fused and split version is which end you’re allowed to loop around. However, to get to the other side one can always loop around in the other direction. For example, doing the “fuse the SParts and cut the eye” operation to a TIB bowline makes for a trivially TIB knot. You just place the collar right over the old SParts/new eye. It’s the regular version that’s a bit of a trick since you’re not allowed to loop around that end, and so we just go the other way.

Continuing from there, all TIB knots become equivalent to the “unknot”. With the tails joined, “through loading” just becomes “ring loading” of the new eye, and my conjecture simplifies to “for all unknots, there exists at least one eye through which ring loading is offset loading”. This is the same as “…there exist at least one eye for which there no passages of rope through the eye” (because if there were, then when tensioning that passage would fall on the opposite side as the rest of the knot, and therefore the knot would not be entirely offset) or “through which there are no over/under crossings” (because over/over and under/under crossings are just over/under/around and not through the eye, so ring loading pushes them all to the same side of the line of tension).

However, two knot diagrams belonging to the same knot can be related through only 3 operations called “Reidemeister moves”. Type 1 “Twisting”, type 2 “moving a strand over another strand”, or type 3 “moving a strand over crossing”. The only of these that changes the crossings is type 2, and that can only add or subtract over/over and under/under and can never produce or correct an under/over as that would require moving one strand through the other.

Since all TIB knots are equivalent to unknots and all unknots can be tied/untied using only Reidmeister moves, if a knot is TIB, there must exist some point from where a Reidmeister move can be applied towards untying it. By virtue of allowing Reidmeister moves towards untying, there can’t be any passage through this point that it can be snugged up against, and any such point must form an eye. If there exists no such point, then it cannot be untied through Reidmeister moves, isn’t an unknot, and therefore isn’t TIB. The contrapositive of this is my initial conjecture: if the knot is TIB, then there does exist some eye which will produce offset loading when ring loaded, and the only way to have a TIB knot which isn’t offset loaded is by not using all of the loading profiles on all of the eyes.

To reiterate the relevance here, this thread is about “omni (all) directional loaded loops with omnidirectional tails”. It turns out that we cannot have this in a TIB knot without having offset loading on at least one of the eyes (counting “through loading” as ring loading the “eye” of the unknot). This means, when searching for potential candidates we have a few options:

  1. Relax our “omni” requirement a little bit and create an extra eye “tail” that we don’t use (at least not for ring loading). This way we can still have an eye and two standing parts that can be loaded in all directions, even if not all possible loadings of our multiple eye knot.

  2. Relax our “omni” requirement a lot, and give up either ring loading or through loading.

  3. Accept that it won’t be TIB.

  4. Accept that it will be used in offset loading, and make sure it behaves itself in this way.

One can only go so far in knots nomenclature
before trying to figure out “proper” becomes
a major headache! --so many (mis-/ab-)uses,
conflicts, overloadings, … !!

As a general rule, overhands with something passing through them are more more prone to jamming when both the incoming and outgoing lines are on the same side of the thing passing through the center. As far as I can tell, there are two reasons for this. One is that the line has to bend around a larger angle before getting to the part where it binds and the capstan equation says that more angle means less tension, and less tension means less jamming. The other is that there is a bit of a "collar" formed, and there's always that space under there that doesn't get cinched down with tension. This allows loosening in the same way one would loosen a bowline.
What I refer to as the "pretzel" vs. "timber hitch" forms, as you've described them. Although the latter can leave that space you note, it can be the case --esp. w/stretchy material-- that the collar around a part gets very tight and holds tight on the force-diminished diameter, jamming the relaxation past that point, unstretched material beyond this point *blocking* against the tight collar --small space created or not!

Sometimes the pretzel OH form has enough strands
surrounded that one can loosen the structure by
wiggling the enclosed parts back’n’forth.

Too bad there's no TIB [i]Ashley's bend [#1452][/i] equivalent of the butterfly loop.
For the latter, one can make it via what some have called "the twirly-flop method" --an old, traditional twisting of the rope then tucking the bight through prior twists folded together-- if one, just pre-eye_bight-tucking, turns one of the halves --only the right one can be done, so it will be obvious (turn other & you'll have nothing)-- over, creating a Fig.8 half, and then having the SParts' draw being the same (clockwise/or anti-).

For Ashley’s, there is a twin loops fat version,
and then something akin to these knots with one
overhand & one fig.8 half and nice looks.

–dl*

What I refer to as the "pretzel" vs. "timber hitch" forms, as you've described them.

That sounds like a good way to refer to them.

Although the latter can leave that space you note, it can be the case --esp. w/stretchy material-- that the collar around a part gets very tight and holds tight on the force-diminished diameter, jamming the relaxation past that point, unstretched material beyond this point *blocking* against the tight collar --small space created or not!

Sometimes the pretzel OH form has enough strands
surrounded that one can loosen the structure by
wiggling the enclosed parts back’n’forth.

Yeah, it’s not the only factor going into jamming, and the amount of “stuff” in the overhand is a big part too. For example, the simple lehman locked bowline jams when loaded from what is normally seen as the “tail”, even though it’s a timber hitch overhand. It’s a shame, since otherwise it might make for a good TIB omnidirectional loop knot.

For the latter, one can make it via what some have called "the twirly-flop method" --an old, traditional twisting of the rope then tucking the bight through prior twists folded together-- if one, just pre-eye_bight-tucking, turns one of the halves --only the right one can be done, so it will be obvious (turn other & you'll have nothing)-- over, creating a Fig.8 half, and then having the SParts' draw being the same (clockwise/or anti-).

For Ashley’s, there is a twin loops fat version,
and then something akin to these knots with one
overhand & one fig.8 half and nice looks.

I"m struggling to follow here. Are you saying that you can tie a knot that is one half overhand and one half figure eight with each half being the “timber hitch version”?.

Yes! (just had to get out some rope and see for myself)
Again, in the traditional method, just prior to inserting
the eye bight through the twist-formed opposed bights,
give the one bight that can take it a half-turn which
puts its side into a to-be Fig.8, and tuck.

(E.g., in Animated Knots’ tying sequence,
at step-image #11 --which, yes, already has the bight
insertion, but just imagine that yet to come (as this
image shows the knot otherwise in the desired state)–,
one would turn the LEFT side near edge away-over
the away side, making it a Fig.8 (upon bight insertion).)

And, yes, both sides then have “timber-hitch” vs.
“pretzel” geometries for easier loosening. (And
also the same-rotation draw of nipping turns.)

–dl*

What a ridiculous thread to try and follow. Just a ridiculous conversation here.

Further to :

Agent_Smith provided a handy image for reference,
above.

ref. Reply#15
Ah, in A_S’s image of the “Twisted…”, just back out the
eye bight, and un-twist the upper SPart’s fig.8 back into
an overhand; this will result in the SParts rotating/twisting
the tails in the same direction (as w/#1452, 1408, zeppelin).
That’s what I mean.

–dl*

Im the OP and attempting to get back on topic, does anybody have any experience with rethreaded 8 or a doubled double fisherman? If you can access the tail, I think it might be a viable solution. I experimented and it seems to stand quite well. To tie I simply formed a double fisherman where the loop would begin, then form a loop and enter the double fisherman from the standing side, tracing the knot and pulling all the slack through. See photo.

https://i.imgur.com/u4j6qD9.jpg