I must point out that this variation is not what I had in mind.
(It also could be done with just one knot.)
Change it to a bight through the ring, a slip-tuck bight
through that bight to toggle it,
and the tail weighted:
on rappel, the 1st bight nips the slip-tuck toggle hard
and holds the abseiler for the descent;
by unweighting that line, though, the nip lessens (hope-hope),
and the weighted tail pulls out the slip-tuck bight,
spilling the line, weight attached, and secured below.
There are still some potential pitfalls as Roo remarks, with the
line & (relatively bulky) weight getting hung up (or, with their
projection past the lower belay point in the drop, hung down !).
And what counts for this added weight? --a climbing shoe
stuffed with something dense? (This is an emergency exit,
not planned 1-rope efficiency (stupidity)!)
Here’s a possible solution: a weighted Marlin Spike holding the load on the anchor and being situation to fall out after the standing end is unloaded and shaken.
Out of curiosity, what would you tie if you had 100 feet of a single rope and 40 feet of rappel distance?
I don’t get it. The subject here is rappelling. So, I’d rather not guess what you mean.
What would be a good combination of knots to use for the rappel and to get the single rope down after the rappel? (Again, the situation is 100 feet of single rope and 40 feet of rappel distance.)
Most climbing ropes are 160’ (or 50 m), but if what you have is a 100’ rope and the distance is 40’, there is 20’ of rope with which to make the knots when the rope is doubled all the way. It’s a pretty standard situation and there are several ways of doing it, but the simplest would be doubling the rope through the belaying point and putting a Munter through the biner on the harness. The rope ends are tied together with an overhand, There is no knot on the rope when it is retrieved, so it is rather simple.
The knot that is presented here is for cases where the doubled rope would not reach the point you would rappel to.
Look at YOUR pic of a single-rope set-up above;
now, UNtie those dang knots. Get it? (There is some
extra 50’ of rope on the just-unknotted side, as on the
other. Actually, it’s maybe a trick quetion : I’d use Ashley’s stoppers in both ends, 2 B sure --of not
rapping off the ends.)
.:. The circumstance you posit is a standard, unchallenging
(and expected, with “twin” rope!) case; the more common
case is with two ropes, joined together.
Just a quick note on rope systems nomenclature for climbing, which can be confusing:
Single rope:
Thickest
Most popular
High dragging on way up (zig-zagging due to non-alignment of anchor points)
Least expensive
Rappel distance capacity is half of rope length
Load must be carried by a single person on approach to route base
Double rope:
Thinner
Less dragging on way up (less zig-zagging due to possibility of clipping alternating anchor points with one or another rope depending of position of anchors, achieving a more close to straight line with both ropes)
More expensive
Rappel distance capacity is the total rope length for each rope using the two ropes united and folded in half.
Load can be shared by two people on approach to route base
Twin ropes:
Thinnest
Meant to be used in pairs as a single rope, both ropes clipped to every single anchor on ascent.
More expensive
Rappel distance capacity is the total rope length for each rope using the two ropes united and folded in half.
Load can be shared by two people on approach to route base
When referring to rappeling, one can rappel off a double line, which is any rope (single rope or two ropes united) folded in half, just passed through the anchor point, no knot at the anchor point, stopper knots at both ends of the rope, both ends together or separated, to avoid rappelling off the end of the rope and death).
Rappelling off a single line refers to anchoring one end of the rope and rappelling through its whole length.
And there are I think a few ropes that meet ALL of the trio
of rockclimbing-rope classifications --notably (the first?)
Beal’s “Joker” (sort of a wild card that can be anything).
