Sheet bend

My learned colleague Dan Lehman might be interested in this video from 'Ryan Jenks (HowNot2) :

Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xx_kESGbi0

We’ve discussed the Sheet bend before - and its #1431 / #1432 forms…

Here we see ‘layman’ type testing of both orientations - including tests using more slick/slippery cord. Its worth having a look at the video…

Note: I use the term ‘layman / lay person’ in a non-insulting manner. Ryan’s audience isn’t knot geeks - his content is tailored to the general climbing/high lining recreational community. There is nothing intrinsically wrong with this!

I watched this video with interest. All of his tests are with woven, synthetic cordage.

I would love to see how a more ‘traditional’ twisted rope might behave, and if this might influence the effectiveness of the right hand version over the left hand one.

I was going to suggest this in the comments of his video, but such tests are a bit outside of his area, I think.

THANK YOU MUCH, yes, at LONNNNNNNNNNNNNG last,
someone actually TESTS the Sheet Bend with small-2-large
ropes, the supposed purpose of the joint!! (So, we are still
awaiting someone testing the Carrick Bend with seized
Tails --the strongest & best form for thick ropes (but we
do see a few tests (CLDay, Dent) of the knot with some
pipe thrust through its center, a form I’ve NEVER seen
mentioned !! ?) )

Now, if only I had been with HowNotTo testers to put
in some rather obvious sheet-bend-like joints, i.p. the
multiple Lapp Bend (which I think would not slip),
the #488 orientation of the Dbl.Sheet Bend, and
some better securings of the Tails.

Thanks again,
–dl*
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Yep great – and many thanks but I never trust either simply tied :blush:

More years ago than I like to remember I was taught the clove hitch!

It is a very useful ‘knot’ for attaching a rope to an object – however I was lucky as a few months or years later another of my teachers showed me that and how a clove hitch is not a ‘trustworthy’ hitch/knot – simply it rolls out under tension – and not much of that :blush:

He showed me the very simple method of making it ‘honest’- a half hitch using the short end around the standing part. :blush:

This has become habit ever since.

Learnt: you cannot always trust a knot

This is as true of the bowline sheet bend as it is of the clove hitch :blush:

You do not have to put the half hitch on immediately the hitch/knot is tied – it can be put on when you have a moment provided that you have left sufficient short end :blush:

There are of course the double sheet bend and the bowline on the bight which … :blush:

Very nice, ty!

A#1 they should have safety bars or some other preparation for the breakage recoil and then safety goggles.
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i always thought that predominately the righthand Sheet preference was due to:
•bedding into the lay of 3strand?
•And then because it also sandwiches both the Bitter Ends between the outer fully loaded legs to seem most proper.

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i consider rope kinda just another ‘building material’ in many ways. So, look for some knots taking to some materials and stiffnesses better than others. Just like some wood production might be better in oak than pine; or aluminum vs. steel for different applications. Just as with woods, metals, plastics; would seem can’t claim everything is consistent across all ropes generically. So, by extension different rope characteristics could work better in some knots etc.
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The Ancients worked natural fiber ropes of higher friction coefficients and seized or stoppered a lot for industrial usages would seem as other players in the yesterday’s text vs. today’s usages triaging.

i too prefer better security for both sides of the system ‘argument’. Like the more passive Bight side as closed eye with a ProHaska/Blake’s Hitch(adjustable or DBY for fixed eye); and the more active/locking side having a Round Turn(RT) before the tuck/Nip; and many times slipped. It depends on service duty:
•nominal quickie, short ends as just basic Sheet Bend as above
•heavier service with RT and perhaps Bight side in friction hitch
•real hard, sequential, sudden service for sure gets slip as untie aid for dragging(not lifting tho).

i prefer the slip crossed on itself to poof/serve up more deformity for harder clamping i think i see.

Knot guru Mr. Lehman has brought this up about Left. vs. Right Sheet Bends over the years. As i chased his view i did note he favors the underdog Left Hand style; that actually relates to the proper Square Knot form. While the ‘proper’ Right Hand style forms from the ‘improper’ Thief knot form as possibly fortifying his position:


Personally i lean towards Left vs. Right Sheet Bends mattering more in 3strand where would want to bed the Hitch’s lock into the lay of the bight/passive/host side member. NOT skipping across the texture of the lay.
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Also, we just speak of ropes as generic items more irreguardless of manufacture but especially of material as ‘knot-smiths’. But rope is as a building material to engineer like other materials and constructions; subject to the same rules. Whereby to a woodsmith or metalsmith etc. , different oak vs. pine as like aluminum vs. steel would be more deeply part of the considerations. Perhaps separating ropes into materials, textures, constructions, rigidities and elasticities under varying loads would more reveal Left over Right or yet vice versa considerations.
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For real work, risk, long term usage etc. or just cuz i lean towards the more secure Double Sheet Bend form. i think can go Left or Right very confidently as route around the whole argument:

Only tucking the final / Bitter end is quicker and works strong.
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i do prefer to slip Sheet Bends, especially for repeated usages; like pulling logs etc. Where have the bight on the pull side perhaps even larger size rope. Then a bunch of ‘tails’ available that can be reset quickly to the bight. Can pull load, detonate the slip and truck/loader leaves as the just pulled load is untied; pull another and repeat throwing the previous tail now untied into the pulling vehicle for speed of return.

i think the crossed form if stabilized well provides more secure Nip/pinch by virtue of giving more linearity deformity.
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In mixed size ropes, thicker on the more ‘passive’ bight or host side there are some extra notes. i still slip these as above, but don’t show here for more clear view of the basics. i think the double-tuck here works as the smaller ‘cord’ gets more lost in the size of the larger bight. So as not to give the ‘trestling’ (d)effect noted previously.

This is how i fell into doing these things too, not by design; but rather observation. To then come back around later in more deeper sifting study and find i shoulda just read closer from the ‘Big Book’! The ‘hands-on’ wisdom of the Ancient’s collective raw experience must be respected!

a clove hitch is not a ‘trustworthy’ hitch/knot – simply it rolls out under tension – and not much of that [(!)]
//
Learnt: you cannot always trust a knot

There are a lot of commercial fishermen out there with
floats et cetera clove-hitched to the rail of their trawlers;
they might have an idea of the knot’s usefulness and risks.
Like this, but the hitches (whatever they are) aren’t discernible.
lobster-landing-4-1536x1027.jpg (1536×1027)
The clove h. is commonly used to tie off the ends of pot bridles,
and then the tail is usually HH’d or reeved through the lay and
maybe hog-ring seized to the main line.

Remedies for slipping clove hitches exist : simply put an OverHand
stopper in the tail, snugged to the knot; or “one good turn deserves
another” --make a “Builder’s Knot” with another wrap & tuck of the Tail.
Or use a Groundline Hitch.

And learn this : knots are often material-dependent for performance!
The usual questions are of the form “How [whatever] is this knot?”
but these should be re-cast as "How [whatever] is this so-knotted material?

–dl*
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