We’ve discussed the Sheet bend before - and its #1431 / #1432 forms…
Here we see ‘layman’ type testing of both orientations - including tests using more slick/slippery cord. Its worth having a look at the video…
Note: I use the term ‘layman / lay person’ in a non-insulting manner. Ryan’s audience isn’t knot geeks - his content is tailored to the general climbing/high lining recreational community. There is nothing intrinsically wrong with this!
I watched this video with interest. All of his tests are with woven, synthetic cordage.
I would love to see how a more ‘traditional’ twisted rope might behave, and if this might influence the effectiveness of the right hand version over the left hand one.
I was going to suggest this in the comments of his video, but such tests are a bit outside of his area, I think.
THANK YOU MUCH, yes, at LONNNNNNNNNNNNNG last,
someone actually TESTS the Sheet Bend with small-2-large
ropes, the supposed purpose of the joint!! (So, we are still
awaiting someone testing the Carrick Bend with seized
Tails --the strongest & best form for thick ropes (but we
do see a few tests (CLDay, Dent) of the knot with some
pipe thrust through its center, a form I’ve NEVER seen
mentioned !! ?) )
Now, if only I had been with HowNotTo testers to put
in some rather obvious sheet-bend-like joints, i.p. the
multiple Lapp Bend (which I think would not slip),
the #488 orientation of the Dbl.Sheet Bend, and
some better securings of the Tails.
Yep great – and many thanks but I never trust either simply tied
More years ago than I like to remember I was taught the clove hitch!
It is a very useful ‘knot’ for attaching a rope to an object – however I was lucky as a few months or years later another of my teachers showed me that and how a clove hitch is not a ‘trustworthy’ hitch/knot – simply it rolls out under tension – and not much of that
He showed me the very simple method of making it ‘honest’- a half hitch using the short end around the standing part.
This has become habit ever since.
Learnt: you cannot always trust a knot
This is as true of the bowline sheet bend as it is of the clove hitch
You do not have to put the half hitch on immediately the hitch/knot is tied – it can be put on when you have a moment provided that you have left sufficient short end
There are of course the double sheet bend and the bowline on the bight which …
A#1 they should have safety bars or some other preparation for the breakage recoil and then safety goggles.
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i always thought that predominately the righthand Sheet preference was due to:
•bedding into the lay of 3strand?
•And then because it also sandwiches both the Bitter Ends between the outer fully loaded legs to seem most proper.
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i consider rope kinda just another ‘building material’ in many ways. So, look for some knots taking to some materials and stiffnesses better than others. Just like some wood production might be better in oak than pine; or aluminum vs. steel for different applications. Just as with woods, metals, plastics; would seem can’t claim everything is consistent across all ropes generically. So, by extension different rope characteristics could work better in some knots etc.
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The Ancients worked natural fiber ropes of higher friction coefficients and seized or stoppered a lot for industrial usages would seem as other players in the yesterday’s text vs. today’s usages triaging.
i too prefer better security for both sides of the system ‘argument’. Like the more passive Bight side as closed eye with a ProHaska/Blake’s Hitch(adjustable or DBY for fixed eye); and the more active/locking side having a Round Turn(RT) before the tuck/Nip; and many times slipped. It depends on service duty:
•nominal quickie, short ends as just basic Sheet Bend as above
•heavier service with RT and perhaps Bight side in friction hitch
•real hard, sequential, sudden service for sure gets slip as untie aid for dragging(not lifting tho).
i prefer the slip crossed on itself to poof/serve up more deformity for harder clamping i think i see.
