TEST REPORT
Knot: #1033 Carrick ‘loop’
Test objective:
To determine if #1033 is vulnerable to jamming.
The scope if the testing had a very narrow focus - and that was aimed only at probing the knots vulnerability to jamming.
If the knot is vulnerable to jamming, this would cast doubt on any type of classification as a member of the ‘Bowline’ family of knots.
This author has not been able to induce jamming with ‘Bowlines’ tied in human rated ropes (for climbing and rope rescue applications - eg EN892 and EN1891 and EN564 accessory cord).
There are no practical applications for #1033 in any life critical applications in rope rescue or rock climbing. This is purely a theoretical analysis.
Type of rope material:
As identified in the attached images.
All ropes are human rated and conforming to an EN standard.
Tester: Mark Gommers
Test date: 27 August 2018
Tester classification: Hobbyist / enthusiast tester
Test rig:
Dynafor 5 ton digital tension load cell
2 ton lever hoist
Natural tree anchors in backyard
Unilateral setup - force generating machine (ie ‘lever hoist’) located on one side of knot - all force injected from one side
Lever hoist pumped by hand while observing load cell LCD display
Assumptions:
Initial (threshold) jamming is reached when it is no longer possible to loosen and untie a knot by hand (without using tools). Maximal jamming state is reached when even the use of tools will not loosen the knot.
All Bowlines are theorized as being jam resistant. NOTE: This theory is open to debate amongst knot theoreticians - and this author had never been able to induce jamming of ‘Bowlines’ in human rated ropes (ie ropes and cords than conform to an EN standard and used in climbing and rescue applications).
Observations:
At loads up to 12.0kN, I had no difficulty loosening the knot.
There was never any difficulty with any of the rope types.
Conclusion:
#1033 Carrick ‘loop’ remains jam resistant right up to a ropes MBS yield point (in EN human rated ropes).
This conclusion has been confirmed by Xarax who tested an EN 892 dynamic rope (‘Tendon’ brand) to its MBS yield point. The Carrick ‘loop’ was easily untied.
Jam resistance is an important characteristic of [a] ‘Bowline’.
At no time did the knot undergo a transformation or show signs of instability.
This knots resistance to jamming relates to the nipping structure which takes the form of a helix that is loaded at both ends.
The nipping structure is jam resistant and ‘TIB’ (which makes it topologically equivalent to the ‘unknot’).
It remains open to other testers to either confirm or refute these results (in human rated ropes that conform to an EN standard).