Tying an accessory rope to a biner

Practical Knots
1

When tying a static rope to a biner, as in say attaching the other end of a Blake hitch to a harness when abscending a tree, I’ve seen a Scaffold or an Anchor hitches used. Would it be wise to replace them with a Gnat hitch as potentially less jamming, but not as widely known for security?

2

The Scaffold Knot (also known as ABOK #409 noose) is generally regarded as fairly good in security against slack shaking, but the Gnat Hitch tends to perform even better:

https://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=6076.msg40892#msg40892

Then with the Gnat Hitch’s better jam resistance, it’s a win-win option.

Even with knots known from antiquity, it’s always good to test a knot that is new to you in the rope you will be using if the task is important.

3

No. The 'biner hitch is also supposed to stay
in place and load the major axis of the 'biner,
not slip out of place accidentally.

And consider the dual loading --did you actually TRY using
the Gnat hitch as you discribe?!

–dl*

4

Your mileage may vary, but I don’t notice very much difference in the ability for the knots to maintain a certain spot on the carabiner between a Gnat Hitch and a Scaffold Knot.

Of course there are carabiners with eyelets or captive bars to force correct positioning.