That is simply reeving of the tail back through the hole made by the collar and the standing line, right? (sorry, it’s been a while) (!! Please respond to at least this.)
The collar is free to move upon unloading. Any movement that allows the tail to move is too much movement for me.
and satisfy all of the properties you seem to be looking for,
I’m not trying to further secure an already secured bowline from the first stage, with extra tail maneuvering!
An extra tail maneuver is necessary to make any bowline safe in a set-it-and-forget-it life-on-the-line situation. As per my previous post, the simplicity of the collar and tail (through the nips, around the SP and back through the nips) will never be enough. Any hitch will loosen with time. That is what all the nipping loops are. They are a hitch placed upon a bight.
Edit: Can we look to the prussik/knut/klemheist/blake’s type hitches for guidance in our nipping loops without adding unnecessary bulk to our knot?!?!
That would make the nub less pliable for my standards.
…but for a secure and Stable knot, you want the knot to be as minimally pliable as possible. You want an irretrievable mess of a rock (after any loading) that can somehow magically be easily untied. I have tried and tried but never found another bowline (or pseudo-bowline) with these properties.
Anyway, the crossing of the load lines, at lobster buoy bwl, is not a matter of dressing, but a distinctive feature of this specific nipping configuration, as it always lies within the nub despite your round turn- like dressing.
Yes, but if you take the crossing and move it to its far end, you find that it has a channel to sit in. This channel loads the secondary nipping loop with extra friction. The SP never, upon loading, makes any attempt to leave this configuration. This is the “lowest energy state” for a reversed girth hitch. It will stay there and add friction. This also forces the lower nipping loop to be the primary and for the nipping loop friction to counteract unloading movement (as long as they are aided in their counteracting binding by the doubly nipped tail). It not only affects the lay of the lines, it affects the overall knot stability.
(I have practiced in my tying of the knot a specific position when reeving the collar, images 4 and 5, turning into 6 before the End Bound. This prevents the topological change that I am sad actually exists within my knot. {I hate knots with multiple topologies that don’t reform upon loading} It is probably my 10,000 tyings of it that are the reason I have never had a crossing line while tying into my harness)
It should also be noted that any mis-tying or alternate topology of this knot never renders it unstable or insecure. The base reversed girth hitch nipping loop is great at grabbing and holding anything that goes through it. That is the second best part of my base nipping loops. A person who fails, making a wrong turn anywhere, or even failing to complete a second turn, is likely still hanging on one of the most stable and secure unfinished bowlines. Yes, the first stage of my knot (further question from you) does resist cyclical loading as much as a few other that you have offered. It is a good base and is at least slightly forgiving of errors. If I don’t include the ongoing eye leg, I am likely still safe. If I collar the ongoing eye leg, I am likely still safe.
Moreover, where is the girth hitch collar in the last photo? It looks like it has been vanished, unless you have placed it under the knot to crop some bulk! :)
True, though it is still smaller or equal to any Figure 8 Follow Through that I see tied by my fellow climbers. It does have a 3rd dimension. It isn’t huge. Tie it yourself and see.
Seriously now, thank you for re-posting it, i regard it very relevant to the concept discussed here.
You have two lines loaded in crossed fashion, within the boundaries of a collar and an EBDB turn generating endless friction, so keep using it since you have tested it and you feel safe!
I definitely will. I just want others to see its simplicity and qualities. I wish it was as partner checkable as an 8, but that will always be true of any knot that can compare to it.
However, given that your first stage of your knot, appears to endure cyclic loading, slack shaking or flogging forces, do you find the finish binding turn as a must component or is it there only for psychological reasons?
The nipping loops alone endure them well, but well is absolutely not good enough. I don’t trust JUST them. If they have any opportunity to pull slack then they might. That 1/1000 is too much.
I’ve stated it a couple times, but a bowline in anything stiffer than super supple with a long tail is simply not stable in a tie-it-once-and-feel-safe-forever setting. My knot rubs on slab. Slack is taken and given. One failure in a million uses means that someone dies, eventually. It is there out of necessity. Its interaction with the nipping loops (as per my last post) are what enable the knot to stay rock solid. The entirety of the structure is what enables it to be easily released with two moves.
On the contrary, Dan's mirrored BWL, calls for additional tail maneuvering, due to its vulnerabilities at the first stage.
I’d argue that the inherent looseness of the (reversed from mine) girth hitch nipping loops are what make it unstable. It can never lock down upon itself and therefore, with enough time and movement, it is unstable. It is easily untied because it maintains that looseness and because of added complexity of a second entire bowline for a tail lock. It is absolutely beautiful for its symmetry and it is one of my favorite knots that I have ever seen. In a double bowline, Lee’s Link move (end bound before forming collar), followed by collar, followed by end bound on nipping loops only… (Shamrock bowline? Man, is it easy for a partner to check!)… is probably up there, too. Unfortunately, only the tail complexity and added length really secures them, and never into a solid immovable rock.
What about its response to heavy stress? Whatever complexity induced, should it maintain its ease of untying. This bound turn looks very harsh to me in terms of jam resistance. Have you thought about implementing Dan's mirrored janus -like method? It would had given you more degrees of freedom at loosening!The knot would certainly be more stable yet not so aesthetic as the mirrored bwl!
As of this statement, I don’t believe that you’ve ever tested my bowline in any line that it can be used on for its purpose. Please take any cordalette from 6mm dynamic to stiff static rope at 11.5mm and tie my knot. Put your full strength into tightening all 4 lines, starting and ending with the tail. The two moves (seriously?!? per my last email…) will release it every time, despite it feeling like it will take a hammer and a marlin spike to undo. (I can’t speak for its use in fishing line or 550 as a releasable knot. Sorry.)
I have the sense that you are trying to denature a bowline into a figure eight loopknot! I feel you because i have done the exact opposite!
To be fair to that, a figure 8 is just a bowline in a silly nipping loop with a bad Yosemite finish. It would be a pretty amazing bowline if it was post eye tiable. The beauty of the Figure 8 Follow Through is the opposite and opposed friction. That is what I have found with my bowline, and with no other. It holds tension until movements are made that are easily done intentionally, but never by usage.
For the first time that I have ever read, I actively disagree with Alan Lee. I do not like the Munter X. It is a complicated nipping loop to form PET and it deforms into a loopback like my Reversed Girth Hitch, but without any qualities that help it hold anything. It definitely will not seize, but neither will a slip knot.
The Alpineer’s Bowline is pretty good for what it is. It is almost great, despite the crossed lines. The returning eye-leg going through a part (the SP and collar) that is, in any bowline, meant to remain untensioned, is a deal breaker for stability. I’d have to cinch the loop tight to my harness to get permanent stability. The returning eye leg and collar will slack at the same time, loosening the lower nipping loop as well as the unfinished/half formed upper nipping loop.