Post edit: Please note that statements below are false, see next two posts.
/Inkanyezi
In my opinion, it bears little resemblance to the perfection loop. It might be something else that perhaps was tied by mistake. I tried to reproduce it, and I came up with something very poor. I did not succeed in dressing the angler’s loop to resemble the one in the image.
The perfection loop shares the “hinge”, about which there is so much verbosity regarding the zeppelin knot. The curve of the loop leg toward the top of the image remains visible no matter how hard I try to hide it.
!!! ?
I’m amazed, really!
The knot is, as noted above, the angler’s/perfection loop
–to which it bears, unsurprisingly, resemblance
(ameliorated by the (a) hard-loading compression/setting
and (b) some hard-life banging against objects).
Inkanyezi, you dont’ show this --no : for you don’t show
the named loop, but some “tugboat bowline” like knot.
In your supposed a./p. loop, the SPart should connect
to the hard-set (actual) turn of UPPER part;
the tail returns as the lower eye leg, et cetera.
The named eyeknot is of an overhand base (not yours)!
I was unable to find any bowline variation that mimics the leg arrangement shown in the original photo, so I’m leaning toward the possibility that it is a Perfection Loop or Angler’s Loop with the standing part’s collar rotated out of view. It’d be a rare find in the field.
I lost the nylon strap with a buckle that I use to keep the front wheel of my bicycle from spinning and swinging side tio side when I am carrying it on my bicycle rack on my car. I was considering what knot to use when I read about the Gleipnir Binder in the June issue of KM. It holds the wheel in place and does not loosen with all the vibration caused by driving. It is easy to tie and untie when I am ready to use the bicycle
xarax
To make this “Gleipnir” binder I formed the nipping coil and took both ends together around the frame and wheel of the bicycle. I placed one end through the nipping coil from the front and the other through the coil from the back. Pulling on both ends in opposite ditections tightens the knot. Tony
Slightly better photo. Both ends go around frame of bicycle and then around the wheel. The upper strand goes down through the nipping loop and the lower strand goes through the opposite way. This works for me. Would not want it any tighter.
[url=http:// http://i.imgur.com/3WIpeyJ.jpg
] http://i.imgur.com/3WIpeyJ.jpg
[/url]
Let’s dispose of further post pollution to this thread
which is better left as posted sightings of fact, and not
in-depth discussions (within reason).
And the simple statement that made clear the debated
structure here unfortunately has an IGKT-limited meaning:
“read about the Gleipnir Binder in the June issue of KM.”
In Knotting Matters, the particular Gleipnir variant that
is presented is one in which a bight with a turNip is brought
around the bound object to meet its two tails, which are then
reeved through it in opposite directions --and usually to be
hauled tight by pulling opposite to each other and perpen-
dicular to the axis of binder tension. (This is a variant that
hopes to deliver tension immediately to the turNip,
in contrast to the original structure which requires the
tension to be transmitted through the line around the
object --something that is often not so well done.)
In this bight+tails variant, there is no viable crossing
of tails, but only some thought as to which side of the turNip re its legs the reeving should lie (i.e., should
the loaded side of the tail lie adjacent the leg of the turNip or not --likely a minor point). Or… I should submit that it is not viable with the minimal such turNip; but add a round turn to this,
and then … the crossing seems to be sustainable, and
we can discuss this in a dedicated (perhaps one of the
existing …) thread.
(Now --OUCH-- I must work at loosening such an
extra-turn knot around my not-yet-gone-blue thigh!!)
As an electrician I have used the Icicle Hitch to pull wire. The standard method is starting with a clove hitch a foot or so back on the wire, or group of wires, followed by a series of half hitches working your way up to the end and finishing it off with a layer of electrical tape. The Icicle Hitch works great when you have to re-position the pulling rope on the wire to get another bite. I use the bowline quite often in the trade. Splicing an eye in three stranded rope is sometimes required on the job. I use many others for oddball things around the job site as well.
While I was on vacation recently I saw this “Knot Tie Board” outside of a store in Belfast, Maine. Most of the instructions were sun faded and the cordage was missing in several spots. A very small reference to the maritime history of this coastal town. The only knots in sight in any of the stores were a few monkey fist knots (made in China) and glass balls (also China) with a crude net cover. No regional knot tying presence at all.
The picture shows cotton rope when an anchor cable would have been hemp at least 7 inches in diameter for a ship the size of the Victory. The cable would I think have been heavily seized to the ring on the anchor not just half hitched (though a half hitch may have been supported by the seizing). This is plainly decorative for the benefit of the public - the rope shown has no practical use on a warship like this.
Methinks there need be better vision here among the replies:
the rope IMO is nylon or polyester --note the end, the
seemingly melted strands (though chemical whipping can
look the same)–; I don’t see reason to conclude “cotton”,
anyway. And it IS cable-laid, and stouter than what can
be seen at the other end of the anchor.
(Finding historically authentic rope might’ve been both
hard to do and, hmmm, dubious re serving for use --does
this ship ever move about?)
And the knot is one of those "cinch"es shown in ABOK
which have long puzzled me, for the multiple seizings of
the turned end would come under force only in
sequence (“united we DON’T stand”), one taking
the load and only if it fails will another be loaded (much)!?
(Hmmm, well, maybe I’m off here : the S.Part’s pull will
try to open the seized turn, and so all seizings will get
some load, but still it seems as though the one at the
entry to the turn will be most heavily loaded!?)
And it’s interesting to see that the RING ITSELF
has a cordage covering --to what purpose, that?!
Looking at an enlarged picture (as I did) the surface of the rope shows the fluffy bits typical of slightly worn bleached cotton - as is the colour and texture. In addition although cable laid cotton was once common among the canal boating community for example (it is now very difficult to get) I have never seen cable laid man-made fibre rope - anything bigger than 40mm eg mooring ropes is multiplait of some sort. Be interesting if JD could find out what the rope actually is.
I found this one yesterday in my local craft store. It is used to tie a bundle of hardwood broom handles, allowing them to be loosened and re-tightened easily.
